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Routes in Fire Crags

Bent Brain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Europe Revisited S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face the Seam S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Finger Fit S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grib Dat Hole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jensen's Jugs S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Movin' Out S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tester S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Randy Judycki & Mike Colee, 1992
Page Views: 2,340 total · 15/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start on the left side of the "prow". A steep start, followed by a short, balancy crux leads to fun and aesthetic climbing above. Apparently, some pockets were drilled.

Protection

6 protection bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Choncho  
Maybe a tad harder than 11a, but who's counting.
Cool little crag!! Mar 11, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
The first move past the first bolt certainly seems a bit bouldery. It's a great place to take a fall, though. However, make sure your belayer is heavier and/or secured to the ground as a significant lead fall can launch said belayer into the little roof. No fun... Apr 9, 2007
Benjiman
Santa Barbara, CA
Benjiman   Santa Barbara, CA
The anchor for this route consists of a bolt and two open shunts. The two open shunts are sketchy and should probably be replaced. Jun 4, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
A bolt makeover is pending for Fire Crags, so hopefully bent, loose, and manky bolts like the oft-fallen-on first bolt of Grib Dat Hole will be replaced with something more stout. Last time I was up there, the bolt looked pretty bad. Glue-in, anyone? Mar 17, 2008
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
  5.11a
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
  5.11a
Did this route on saturday, had to yard up on that bolt a bit to clip the next bolt because Iwasn't willing to take a fall on it. It looks OK, but I'm not convinced it would arrest a fall. This is a fantastic route other than that bolt (well the anchors seem to be wearing the rock a lot, but the third bolt makes setting a top rope for others seem more secure, still rapped off it seems a bit sketchy. Aug 16, 2010
Jan Roestel
  5.11a
Jan Roestel  
  5.11a
A V1 boulder problem to 5.9 climbing above.
This popular route and Jensen's Jugs would benefit the most from an anchor replacement initiative. Dec 27, 2010
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
  5.11a
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
  5.11a
This route appeared to have new anchors a couple of feet to the right and slightly lower than the old anchors (at least there are so old bolt studs). Also, since I was last on it, the first bolt of the route has been replaced. Apr 6, 2011
Jan Roestel
  5.11a
Jan Roestel  
  5.11a
This route has a new anchor. The bolts appear to be 3/8" (Powers) anchors with PS quicklinks and chain. Looks like the old anchor put up a fight, since there is a bit of rock scarring.
The terrible old first bolt has been replaced. The big new bolt wasn't quite drilled at 90 degrees and the hanger isn't sitting completely flat against the rock. The third (if I remember right) bolt was also replaced with a smaller bolt (and Metolius hanger. All of these old holes should be patched. Apr 11, 2011
Robert Holder
  5.11-
Robert Holder  
  5.11-
This climb is difficult to rate, because the moves are so varied... The crux is a steep, dynamic move close to the ground (but well-protected)that would probably go as a v2 bouldering problem, but the holds are obvious and you are fresh when you go for it. The rest of the climb consists of 5.8-10b moves (generally getting easier as you go up). I found it slightly easier than Jensen's Jugs .
It is worth mentioning that the bolts and anchor seemed to be in good condition at the time of this post. Feb 17, 2015
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.11-
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
  5.11-
First time visiting Fire Crags, and this area certainly has some unremarkable routes... this one however is a total gem - if you're in the area, worth coming out to do this thing, unlikely gym-style movement + good rock the whole way Feb 26, 2018

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