PRINT: Rock Climb Grape Ape, Santa Fe Area

Grape Ape

5.10c, Sport, 130 ft (39 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 181 votes
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Ken Kisiel, 12/2000
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall

Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo Details

The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The Diablo walls included in this plan are The Shack, Winter Wall, Sun Devil Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f

Description

Big muscles will power you over the technical cruxes through the roof section, but save something for the hairy, airy, and crimpy headwall. Splendid position, long route, cool moves.

To find this route, look for the trail that goes along the base of the cliff and follow it until you find a wooden post at the beginning of Post Moderate. Grape Ape is the bolted line just to the left of this route.

Protection

17 bolts to chain anchors.

DESCENT:
Two ropes via rappel or a single 80m rope required for the descent.

Descent

- Two 60m ropes via rappel
or
- Lower using a single 80 rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tina on the upper section of "Grape Ape."

Amy on what she calls the best 5.10 in the state. November 2009.

Rick Bradshaw on the First Ascent of Grape Ape - Photo by Walt Wehner

Tina on the cool moves that take you out of the corner and on to the face.

Chuck turning roof #1. Photo by Bob Robertson

Michael works his way up the lower juggy section

Following on Grape Ape, trailing a second rope for the rappel

Michael cruises up this spectacular route

Amazing and tall route. Great holds the whole way up.

Scott helping me clean "Grape Ape" in the most easiest and funnest way.

Kevin on Grape Ape.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM

5.10c

Excellent climb. Crux going over roof. Watch out for thin top. If you get pumped on lower part the top will get your attention if grip is weak on crimpers. Oct 8, 2006

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO

5.10c

This route is awesome. Best 5.10 I've done at Diablo. For some reason the rock is several grades better than all the other routes in the canyon. Mar 5, 2007

Robin
Albuquerque, NM

5.10c

Great route. I think it's more like 17 quickdraws plus the anchors... bring lots. Apr 10, 2007

Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO

Great climb. The quality of rock is some of the best in the canyon. The over abundance of chalk takes a bit away from the onsight experience. But what else can you expect from one of the best 5.10s in the state! Apr 16, 2007

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM

5.10c

The name Grape Ape reportedly originated from a hairy belligerent purple-fleece-wearing Santa Fean who was working on a nearby trad route at the time of the FA, and wasn't too psyched about the LA crew drilling a 17-bolt sport route right next to it. You can see the purple fleece on the ground in

-----
If you don't have a 2nd rope, you can get down from this climb with 1 rope by rappeling first to the anchor for Highly Caffienated then down from there; it involves some swinging (not too bad, but not straightforward).
-----
This is one of the best 5.10 sport climbs around. Apr 21, 2008

Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM

George's story on the name is sort of close to the truth but significantly more entertaining so I won't spoil it. I think Ken Kisiel came up with the moniker after a brief encounter with the hairy gentleman when we were working on establishing the route. We changed the line a bit to accommodate his concern, which actually made the route a bit better. The name made us laugh so much we named it after him. Apr 22, 2008

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.10c

Having just recently acquired an 80m rope, we now know one can lower off this route with a single 80m rope. I suspect the same is true for Blind Faith but we haven't tried it yet. Dec 4, 2012

TLob	[Hide Comment] Had the honor of climbing this with Rick Bradshaw. Such an awesome climb with great variety. Nice and longenjoy the rests where you get em:) Mar 21, 2014

Andrew Ellis
Albuquerque, NM

5.10a

Really good climb filled with satisfying holds. Though long, it has great rests before both the juggy roof and the crimpy headwall, and no move harder than 5.10a. Because of this, I have a hard time calling this 10c. If you milk the rests for all they are worth, I don't feel that endurance needs to be a factor either (Unless you rush through them). Regardless, a really enjoyable climb. Dec 3, 2017

Michael Parker
Belgrade, MT

5.10c

Spectacular route. My partner lead it and I followed. I lowered him from the top then did 2 raps to get back down, stopping at the mid route anchors on the neighboring route, Post Moderate. Apr 2, 2018

George Bracksieck

Just right of the top is a microwave-size block, balanced on the edge. When it goes, some smaller rocks will go with it. Someone should trundle it soon, when no one is below. Apr 20, 2018

Dylan Boyle
Los Alamos, NM

5.10c

Super fun route!! Crux was not getting pumped on the thin stuff after the roofs. Excellent rock quality. Definitely need an 80m to lower. Dec 9, 2018

Ty Morrison-Heath
Bella Vista, AR

Super engaging climbing and the length catches up with you at the top crux!

We were able to rap the route with a single 9.3 stretchy 70-meter rope from the top anchors, but you literally rapped off your ends as your feet touched the ground. I wouldn't attempt it in a single rap with a less stretchy cord, but worth looking down to see if you can make it in one go when at the midway anchor. Tie knots in your ends if unsure!

Also, I'd highly recommend cleaning this on the way up, as the overhang makes it a bit cruxy (but not impossible!) to clean while rapping. Apr 1, 2022

Garrett Varland
Albuquerque, NM

5.10c

I Love this route so much I have done it over 10 times best 5.10c I have ever done I love the crux over the roof! Apr 14, 2025