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Routes in Sunny Side

Black Streak S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bulge, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hive Mind S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marley Fowat TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Piton Power T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Serpentine (Sun-Rot Dihedral) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shortcut Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Stem-celled T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toucan Bob T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Las Cruces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 546 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 12, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This climb is located on the southern side of Cueva in an hidden alcove beneath a huge chimney system. This is the same chimney system which forms the route Width of Reason on the north system of Cueva. On this side it starts with a steep but short finger crack. This crack opens up to a short section of chimney climbing before gaining a ledge. Above this ledge is 100m or more of easy (5.3) chimney climbing to gain the summit. If you don't feel like scrambling up the chimney past a few trees and reputed bees, you can rap off a piton just above the steep climbing.

A fun route but would be better if it was longer.

Protection

Small cams for the finger crack, and chockstones on the chimney give the route good protection. Some of the chocks may not be entirely sound so caution is advised.

The fixed pin appears sound and can easily be backed-up.

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