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Routes in Sunny Side

Black Streak S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bulge, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hive Mind S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marley Fowat TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Piton Power T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Serpentine (Sun-Rot Dihedral) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shortcut Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Stem-celled T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toucan Bob T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Las Cruces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 579 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

A short and un-inspiring lichen covered slab. Several variations can be climbed from the anchors ranging from 5.4-5.6. Some of them are slightly cleaner than others. for taking a beginner out climbing this route may have some value, but even then it's not going to get a beginner excited about climbing.

Location

On the western end of La Cueva is a small cove. This climb is on the large slab on the right side of the cove. The anchors are located beneath the mushroom-cap top.

Protection

3 relatively good condition (no visible rust) 3/8" bolts make for a good anchor. One of the bolts has a home-made hanger. It may be possible for one to lead the climbing using a few deep-pockets for tri-cam placements. But it would not be a recommended climb for a beginning leader, and would probably feel "R" rated. Reach the anchors by scrambling up from the south (4th class).

Photos

Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
 
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
 
alright for top roping Feb 20, 2012
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
Something of note for those exploring this section of La Cueva; If you continue scrambling along to the top of this section of the cliff you will find another set of 3 shiny bolts. Sources tell me that these bolts are used to set up a tyrolean traverse which crosses over the cove below, and that the organ Mountain rescue Unit uses this for training purposes. Apr 24, 2006