Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||688 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on Feb 2, 2006|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Thrash your way through desert thorns to get to the bouldery start. This boulder problem is the most difficult climbing of the route, and has an awkward fall-zone, even if you have a crash-pad. Above the start continue up the shallow black dihedral (~5.9). The rock quality gets worse the higher you climb. The crack peters out at an old (and untrustworthy in my opinion) 1/4" bolt. You can set up a belay here with Trad gear. Beware though, the natural belay stance is on top of a large and possibly unstable rock protrusion. The grassy ledge to the right does not offer many options for setting up a good anchor.
The second pitch traverses over to the grassy ledge and up a blackened drainage(~5.9). Surprisingly solid protection is found in the crack up this drainage, but there is also some very rotten rock.
Overall this route is a fun excursion on a beautiful wall. The suspect rock quality is offset with good protection and interesting climbing.
No fixed anchor is found at the top of the climb. To descend, scramble west towards a large chimney that splits Cueva. The chimney can be down-climbed or rappelled. The last steep 15m section can be rappelled off a piton.