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Routes in Sunny Side

Black Streak S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bulge, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hive Mind S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marley Fowat TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Piton Power T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Serpentine (Sun-Rot Dihedral) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shortcut Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Stem-celled T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toucan Bob T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Las Cruces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 773 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 6, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

this route shares the start with Toucan Bob but stays in the large corner. The rock in the corner is a pale flaky granite with funny undulations. the bolts lead you deep into the corner before you make an awkward exit onto the slab (crux). From the mid-point anchors, the climbing is easier slab climbing (5.7).

Bees sometimes take residence in the crack near the crux. Getting stung ups the grade to 5.11...

Location

Located on the right side of a large slab next to Toucan Bob. It takes the prominent left-facing corner.

Protection

7 bolts lead to a belay stance with a 3-bolt anchor. Two of the bolts have quick-links on them allowing for a rappel. 4 more bolts lead to the top anchors. Top anchor is 3-bolts and chains. All the bolts on the route are 3/8" and appear in good shape.

Photos

Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
  5.10
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
  5.10
scary solo lead because there was a lot of rope drag on the second pitch, not because the bolts but because i had no place to coil the rope on the hanging belay so i had to drag the whole rope up as i went Apr 12, 2012
Forrest Wilcox
Las Cruces, NM
  5.10
Forrest Wilcox   Las Cruces, NM
  5.10
i loved this climb Apr 11, 2012