Type: Trad, 290 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Started by: Tobin Sorenson & Mike Graham (to 5th bolt), Complete route: Eric Erickson, 1978
Page Views: 2,102 total · 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the smooth face right of Delila (5.8) in three pitches, although many rap from anchors after doing the crux second pitch.

P1) Start by climbing partway up The Escaltor (5.6) and setting a belay near the start of Delila. P2) Launch up the gradually steepening face past 8 bolts and a prominent knob to bolted anchors at the base of a right-facing corner system. P3) Continue up the easy corner (5.6) to the top.

Descend from the top by rapping from anchors atop Rap Flake and then downclimbing The Escalator; if doing only the first two pitches rap to The Escalator and then downclimb that route.

Protection

bolts, gear to 2.5"

Photos

Adam Stackhouse

  5.11c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11c
Superb line, that, with the passing of each bolt the moves get a bit harder and harder and steeper and steeper. At the time, the belay at the end of the described P2 was gear. Nice to hear that it now has bolts for the belay. Feb 4, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11c
A very well protected introduction to the Suicide 5.11 face climbs. Bolts at the top of P2 are a welcome addition. Feb 24, 2006
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
Climbing on dimes. May 5, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11c
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11c
The Photo said it all. Jul 28, 2008
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
I hope this excellent line gets climbed more often than the number of comments would indicate. Clean, continuous, well protected, and maybe the easiest 11c in the area as I recall. Hat tip to the pre-sticky FA party. Sep 15, 2011
Phil Esra  
 
I'm the only person who thinks this is a two-star route at best? I'm amazed. A sea of anonymous micro-crimps up to the crux, the best ones of which will pull off in your hand or crumble under your foot. Got to the crux, where it transitions from micro-edges to smearing, fell a few times, and completely lost interest. Penjied over to the lip on the left to escape up to the bolt anchor. I normally put a lot of stock in the MP star ratings, but other people seem to connect with this route in a way I just didn't. To each his/her own. Jun 30, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11c
Phil you missed the best part of the climb! A lot of why I rate climbs as classic is the way they make me feel. For this climb I just remember leading up a really blank section heading for what looked like a good pocket (the crux I suppose), praying that I wouldn't slide off, making the pocket only to realize that it wasn't quite as good as I'd hoped, then after feeling some level of relief, realizing that it wasn't over and I had to engineer some kind of step up into the pocket, well it goes on, but I felt pretty darn good when i got to the (at the time non-bolted) anchor. I've done this route twice since then, and my opinion hasn't changed. God knows I wouldn't be able to stick it now. Jul 10, 2014
dnaiscool  
 
The sixth bolt to just past the 8th features 25 feet of unrelenting dime edging. I implemented two tricks when I led this back in '89: #1) I pre-clipped three draws on to the rope, so when I got to the bolts (all bolts in this section are hard to clip...I wonder how they were drilled on lead!!..) I did just one move to get the rope on to the bolt, and I did this when the bolt was closer to my waist; #2) As I crept upward I'd toss little bits of powdered chalk up on to the face, and where it would catch left tiny horizontal lines, and the holds became visible... and I wore my chalkbag on the front.
To start the climb,it is a thrilling step-across to a black knob on the face, so make sure to protect this move. I placed a #6 stopper high in the groove with a #11 stopper in opposition to prevent it from pulling out, then I extended the rig to have zero drag for the difficult climbing ahead.
This climb earns the ".11c" not because any single move is that difficult, but because it is so unrelenting for so long. The holds are like someone slapped credit cards on the wall and you have to pull and stand on a ladder of these for 25 feet. And it is a great climb...once you send it!
The hardest climbing is between the 7th and 8th bolts.
Back then I dumped a full set of stoppers (#2-10) in at the belay following the crux, and for the last pitch I used a #11 stopper and a #1 Camalot...You loop a tree on the top and exit by heading down to the right in search of chains that are sort of off the top and down a bit. If you want to round out the climb with some TR fun, then do the two 5.11 routes you pass on rappel before pulling your cord. Aug 12, 2014
Phil Esra  
 
It's possible my take was a reaction to finding it a lot harder than I expected. But on the exact line I took, the best looking holds kept peeling off in my hand--and on one occasion under my foot. Maybe I was just lost. Felt like a poor man's version of Runaway at Josh.

I really like dnaiscool's chalk trick--hadn't heard of that one. Apr 7, 2015
Tradiban  
 
First half is pretty easy 10 but that 25ft of Crux is friggin desperate! Oct 9, 2017