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Routes in (n) Rebolting Face

David T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delila T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond Lane T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Escalator, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goliath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mogen David T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Playing on the Freeway T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebolting Development T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Reckless Driving T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Season's End T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Troy Mayr and Charles Cole, 1987
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A good small holds edging exercise, similar in nature to Season's End Direct and Winter Solstice.
The first pitch is popular, while the second pitch is rarely done. Most parties that continue past the first pitch opt to do Reckless Driving for a second pitch.

Pitch 1: Start with tricky moves past two bolts (11c). The difficulties getting to the first bolt are a little dependent on the exact line taken, a plumb line from the bolt is the most difficult, a couple of feet to either side is slightly easier. From the second bolt a 10c runout takes one to the third bolt of Diamond Lane. Fortunately, the stand up moves to the third bolt are easy as it is near groundfall at that point. Thin moves (11c) lead past the third bolt and end at the bolted belay.

Pitch 2: Traverse left and then up (12a) on thin climbing, joining David on the arete. This pitch is not as good as the first pitch. A better option is to do the second pitch of Reckless Driving.

Location

First route left of Rebolting Development. It is possible to set up a belay on the David arete right after David's crux (one person can down solo David to avoid toping out), or finish on David.

Protection

Bolts, and gear to 3" for the second pitch.

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Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
I found the first pitch to be a great steep slab/micro edging exercise. The crux leading to the anchor is desperate. Oct 17, 2015