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Routes in (n) Rebolting Face

David T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delila T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond Lane T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Escalator, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goliath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mogen David T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Playing on the Freeway T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebolting Development T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Reckless Driving T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Season's End T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Raymond & Pat Callis, June 1966
Page Views: 1,168 total · 11/month
Shared By: tom donnelly on Oct 19, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

First do an easy approach pitch, shared with David. The second pitch goes up the chimney. It's easier if you don't wedge yourself in too tightly. It's also easier on a cold day when you can wear more clothing to protect your skin.
The best finish is up the 5.8 handcrack.

Location

On the far right of weeping wall, right of Sampson. Or on the far left side of Rebolting Face.

Protection

1/2 inch to 4 inch.

Photos

Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8+
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.8+
Followed my friend up this one. Chimney was strenuous and awkward to clean. Hand crack finish was really cool, but it felt pretty stout for 5.8. The hand crack felt like the mirror opposite of Flower of High Rank above the tree, except the Goliath crack was harder for me. May 5, 2012
Phil Esra
  5.8+
Phil Esra  
  5.8+
Did this immediately after Hot Buttered Rump (10a chimney). HBR felt soft for the grade and this one felt stiff. Thing is, Goliath is pretty much the exact same chimney technique (left foot heel-toe, right knee/sole bridge) for over 100 feet. Which is rad, but tiring. Save a big cam (#3 might work, but 4 or 5 would be better) for the last 20' before the hand crack, because the flare gets wider here and the climbing is therefore more strenuous (plus, you're tired).

Gotta do the hand crack finish, but agree with Ryan that the start of it is really burly for 5.8. (My follower used an edge out right somewhere that I missed.)

rap anchor 20' to the right at the top. 3 raps to the ground, or a 70m rope from the 2nd rap will put you 15' off the ground on the elevator, 5.6. May 31, 2013
Tradiban  
 
OMG, do yourself a favor and use the lip at the start of the chimney, left foot on slap right foot and hands on lip, WAY easier! Follow a bomber flake into the wider part of the chimney and then enjoy. Runout but easy chimney from there. Jun 25, 2014
Kent Rogers
Beaver, PA
Kent Rogers   Beaver, PA
Goliath Direct Finish 5.8* Exit right up the hand crack that splits the right wall near the top of the chimney. A great way to finish. Apr 24, 2016

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