[Hide Comment] Superb line, that, with the passing of each bolt the moves get a bit harder and harder and steeper and steeper. At the time, the belay at the end of the described P2 was gear. Nice to hear that it now has bolts for the belay. Feb 4, 2006

[Hide Comment] A very well protected introduction to the Suicide 5.11 face climbs. Bolts at the top of P2 are a welcome addition. Feb 24, 2006

[Hide Comment] Climbing on dimes. May 5, 2008

[Hide Comment] The Photo said it all. Jul 28, 2008

[Hide Comment] I hope this excellent line gets climbed more often than the number of comments would indicate. Clean, continuous, well protected, and maybe the easiest 11c in the area as I recall. Hat tip to the pre-sticky FA party. Sep 15, 2011

[Hide Comment] I'm the only person who thinks this is a two-star route at best? I'm amazed. A sea of anonymous micro-crimps up to the crux, the best ones of which will pull off in your hand or crumble under your foot. Got to the crux, where it transitions from micro-edges to smearing, fell a few times, and completely lost interest. Penjied over to the lip on the left to escape up to the bolt anchor. I normally put a lot of stock in the MP star ratings, but other people seem to connect with this route in a way I just didn't. To each his/her own. Jun 30, 2014

[Hide Comment] Phil you missed the best part of the climb! A lot of why I rate climbs as classic is the way they make me feel. For this climb I just remember leading up a really blank section heading for what looked like a good pocket (the crux I suppose), praying that I wouldn't slide off, making the pocket only to realize that it wasn't quite as good as I'd hoped, then after feeling some level of relief, realizing that it wasn't over and I had to engineer some kind of step up into the pocket, well it goes on, but I felt pretty darn good when i got to the (at the time non-bolted) anchor. I've done this route twice since then, and my opinion hasn't changed. God knows I wouldn't be able to stick it now. Jul 10, 2014

[Hide Comment] The sixth bolt to just past the 8th features 25 feet of unrelenting dime edging. I implemented two tricks when I led this back in '89: #1) I pre-clipped three draws on to the rope, so when I got to the bolts (all bolts in this section are hard to clip...I wonder how they were drilled on lead!!..) I did just one move to get the rope on to the bolt, and I did this when the bolt was closer to my waist; #2) As I crept upward I'd toss little bits of powdered chalk up on to the face, and where it would catch left tiny horizontal lines, and the holds became visible... and I wore my chalkbag on the front.
To start the climb,it is a thrilling step-across to a black knob on the face, so make sure to protect this move. I placed a #6 stopper high in the groove with a #11 stopper in opposition to prevent it from pulling out, then I extended the rig to have zero drag for the difficult climbing ahead.
This climb earns the ".11c" not because any single move is that difficult, but because it is so unrelenting for so long. The holds are like someone slapped credit cards on the wall and you have to pull and stand on a ladder of these for 25 feet. And it is a great climb...once you send it!
The hardest climbing is between the 7th and 8th bolts.
Back then I dumped a full set of stoppers (#2-10) in at the belay following the crux, and for the last pitch I used a #11 stopper and a #1 Camalot...You loop a tree on the top and exit by heading down to the right in search of chains that are sort of off the top and down a bit. If you want to round out the climb with some TR fun, then do the two 5.11 routes you pass on rappel before pulling your cord. Aug 12, 2014

[Hide Comment] It's possible my take was a reaction to finding it a lot harder than I expected. But on the exact line I took, the best looking holds kept peeling off in my hand--and on one occasion under my foot. Maybe I was just lost. Felt like a poor man's version of Runaway at Josh.

I really like dnaiscool's chalk trick--hadn't heard of that one. Apr 7, 2015

[Hide Comment] First half is pretty easy 10 but that 25ft of Crux is friggin desperate! Oct 9, 2017

[Hide Comment] I remember doing this route in a pair of 5.10 verticals that I got when they first came out. I could stick them together sole to sole and they would stay stuck together. It was one of the first climbs I tried in the shoes. I knew I could not do it in E Bs. Those were the stickiest shoes I had ever seen. The shoes made it possible for me to pull off the climb. Thanks to Eric Erickson and Charles Cole. Mar 9, 2019