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Routes in Lunch Rock

Beautiful T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cactus Flower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Can't touch this TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clear Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lunch Rock Left Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Right Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Slab TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mission Control S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Walk T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ramp Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Arete T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skyline Face T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairs, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Steps, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trauma, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
True Skyline Arete T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for Bruce S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Your Lead S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Steve McKinney, Dan Molnar
Page Views: 3,505 total, 24/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climb up a large chunky flake system using face and chimmney moves to a stance just below a large right facing dihedral. Step out to the right and continue up to the anchor on easier ground.

Protection

Standard rack. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.6
I think the best word to describe this climb is 'gross'. The climbing is either easy or awkward, but never challenging in a good way. Most of it is up polished Mission marble. And finally you, reach for a chalked up hold, only to discover there's no hold, and that chalk is actually just bird poop. There are many better lines to be had at the Gorge. May 25, 2013
Well this was an interesting time... I'm a pretty new 5.6 trad leader and I figured that for my first climb of the day at Mission Gorge I'd warm up on The Stairs, which Chris Hubbard's guide has at a 5.3. You may already see where this is going...

So I reach the awkward block on... The Stairs?... and I'm thinking to myself, "Holy F*** this is sandbagged." After pushing through the climb on lead I finally rap down and take another look at the guide and:

1. Okay, wow, that was "The Trauma." Damn.
2. "The toughest 5.6 lead you will ever do"

What a F'ing warmup! I'm happy, but I'll pay a bit more attention to the book next time!

(Separately, the anchors on The Trauma are set pretty far back from the face. Bring some extra cord to extend, or face some serious rope drag.) Jan 9, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Followed. Lot's of bird POOP on the route on the upper section near the piton. Still a fun route. Aug 17, 2011
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.6
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.6
I once saw a guy climb up the right side of the pinnacle, place, then climb around the left. He quickly was stuck. What I saw next was amazing. Instead of cleaning his piece, he wedged himsef beteen the pinnacle and the wall and proceeded to take his harness off! Then he swung this around the pinnacle and put it back on - rope running smoothly.

Since he proceeded to get off route I reminded him that there was a bolt anchor to his right should he need it. I was just worried about his friends dying on his setup. Bad idea, I was told to shut up, he knew what he was doing.

Later both of us ended up at the same anchor somehow. Very awkward. That was the quickest rap I have set up to date.

I guess that day was pretty traumatizing for the both of us. Mar 28, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun climb but you guys who learned on this thing are natural-born-hardmen! I felt The Trauma was awkward and a little hard to protect, therefore aptly named. Jan 27, 2008