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Routes in Lunch Rock

Beautiful T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cactus Flower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Can't touch this TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clear Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lunch Rock Left Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Right Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Slab TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mission Control S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Walk T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ramp Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Arete T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skyline Face T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairs, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Steps, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trauma, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
True Skyline Arete T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for Bruce S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Your Lead S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Hubbard, Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 7,836 total, 61/month
Shared By: Fins129 on May 23, 2007
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is a great climb. The crux is at the top through the last three bolts where it gets pretty vertical. This is a great climb for beginners because the first 5 bolts are probably in the 5.6-5.7 range, plus you can skip the last 3 bolts by heading to the right after the 5th bolt and clipping in to the "Beautiful" rap station.

Location

About 15 feet to the right of Lunch rock. You can free solo up the 15 foot face or 4th class around the side to the right.

Protection

8 bolts to rap station.

Photos

Will H.
  5.8
Will H.  
  5.8
Actual 5.8 climbing begins near the top, so a pretty safe lead. Good for beginners to get their feet wet. Feb 6, 2016
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
A local guy that was guiding a small group of very happy kids, was kind enough to give some beta to a traveling climber and recommended this route as a safe and well protected sport climb. He was right in fact I had a ton of fun solo leading this route. Here are some long arm pics of this fun route.







Thanks for the great recommendation.. Please feel free to look me up if your ever out in my neck of the woods.. Jul 28, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Not a huge fan of Mission Control. I suppose it's good for the budding leader because it eases you in at the bottom and is well protected. But I don't find the climbing to be particularly fun or interesting. The cruxy top ~10 feet is just a matter of figuring out which crappy hand hold you want to use to work your feet up. Feb 25, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.7+
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.7+
Climb through the chains and finish with the upper orange block of Skyline Pinnacle. May want a #3 camalot to protect the move getting to the 1st bolt on the block. Because of the blocky nature its easy to bust an ankle. Saw a guy today who hurt his ankle on this climb. Dec 23, 2012
k-laminero
  5.8 PG13
k-laminero  
  5.8 PG13
Long and Safe fun lead.
The first five bolts are fairly easy, probably more of 5.7.
Getting up to the first bolt is a bit freaky if you just started leading. I advise starting to the left. There is a nice ledge, which allows you to get your right foot at the right end of an inclined slab. There is a nice place for a right foot lock there which gives a lot of support. The handholds after that are good.
Once at the 5th bolt, there is a nice earthy wide ledge that allows to take a breather.
You can go up via the left, along the crack which makes things easier but requires quite a bit of reach to clip in. Along the middle takes a bit of confidence and is definitely the crux (did it that way on my second lead of this route).

Very fun for those who just started leading and are looking for practice and confidence building.

Also noteworthy, anchor is on the face. NO need to get over the top. Jun 12, 2012
millz
Canon CIty!
5.8+
millz   Canon CIty!
5.8+
yeah i lead it a while back and remember freakin out and pumpin out at the last few bolts! think ill climb it again today!! Feb 21, 2012
Dean Olson
  5.8
Dean Olson  
  5.8
most of the holds are slopey and open, so pick the one that sucks the least and keep moving! crux is definitely a little exposed. Sep 22, 2011
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Lead it a while back. The last 2 bolts were tricky for me. Nice fun route! Aug 12, 2011
Great climb to take newbies on! Fun Easy climbing with bolts every few feet. Oct 11, 2010
Danny Murphy
El Segundo, CA
  5.8
Danny Murphy   El Segundo, CA
  5.8
Fun route. Nice long climb. The last bolt is the trickiest! Jan 20, 2009
Rebecca
Broomfield, CO
 
Rebecca   Broomfield, CO
 
Seems to me that there really is not much point in doing this route if you bypass the last few bolts - the bottom of the route is not much harder than a 5.2 - if that. Fun climb if you actually use all the bolts. Jul 31, 2008
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.8
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.8
I think Chris Hubbard was FA. I also think this is the newest bolted line at the Gorge, 2004 or so. I have heard the intent was to create a good line for beginning leaders. May 24, 2007