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Routes in Lunch Rock

Beautiful T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cactus Flower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Can't touch this TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clear Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lunch Rock Left Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Right Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Slab TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mission Control S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Walk T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ramp Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Arete T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skyline Face T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairs, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Steps, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trauma, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
True Skyline Arete T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for Bruce S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Your Lead S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,185 total, 34/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 13, 2007
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

From the top of Lunch Rock proper you can see a ledge that runs to the right, past Mission Control. Near the right end of this ledge is a big pod with a hand crack running up a little ways. This is best accessed by hiking past Lunch Rock and scrambling up to the left, to the end of the ledge. Be sure to have your belayer set a piece (small nuts work fine) in one of the cracks before you begin. Start in the pod and use the crack to pull out of the pod to another ledge. Staying left of the arete, face climb past three bolts and top out on the first pinnacle (Orange Ledge). There is a two bolt anchor that can be used for top roping several climbs that finish here. You'll need slings to extend the anchor for that. When cleaning, just walk off to the East (past the tree, onto the hillside) and follow the last chute down and back to the right.

Location

Just right of Lunch Rock

Protection

3 bolts, pro to 1" - Two bolt anchor, no rings or chains

Photos

Dan G.
 
Dan G.  
 
Really great top rope with all 3 variations possible. There are now quick links at the top! Thanks to whoever added them. Apr 18, 2015
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.8-
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.8-
Start in the pod, it's a fun move and easy to protect. Mar 31, 2013
ChaseLeoncini
San Diego, California
  5.7+
ChaseLeoncini   San Diego, California
  5.7+
I love this little route, exposed and beautiful. I tried to lead first try because someone said it was all sport. When i reached the short traverse right w/ no pro i decided to TR. Bring a .75. If not the moves arent too sketchy to clip the first bolt, but whatever you do don't fall. Or just be smart and TR. Have fun! Nov 27, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
There's two way of starting the route. Left side along beautiful or straight up the pod. There's also a different variation to finish on the last bolt to the left.

I love the move in the pod. Definitely need to put a protection just above the pod, then extend the sling to prevent rope drag. I love this route.

There's no quicklink or rap ring on top of the anchor. I used beautiful's anchor which has quicklinks to rap off from the top. Aug 13, 2011
Dave Kos
Temecula, CA
  5.7
Dave Kos   Temecula, CA
  5.7
0.75 camalot (green) will work to protect the moves out of the pod. May 16, 2011