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Routes in Lunch Rock

Beautiful T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cactus Flower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Can't touch this TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clear Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lunch Rock Left Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Right Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Slab TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mission Control S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Walk T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ramp Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Arete T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skyline Face T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairs, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Steps, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trauma, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
True Skyline Arete T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for Bruce S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Your Lead S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Steve McKinney, Dan Molnar
Page Views: 14,232 total, 98/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Move upward using the main crack system to a sloping stance on highly textured, orange rock. Continue upward through the crux of the climb by stemming up a wide dihedral that is well protected with small gear in a thin crack on the left. Pull over a small roof and continue on easier ground to the anchor.

Protection

Standard rack. Two bolt anchor. Rap bolts.
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
 
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
 
Me and partner both agree that this is probably the best climb in the gorge, only surpassing craigs crack due to length and accessibility. The piton is bomber. If you want to place gear that will actually catch a fall in the small parts of the crack bring a smaller offset nuts and you can sew it up nice and safe. Cams would probably just walk out of those shallow scars. Sep 18, 2016
Scotty Dusek
San Diego
  5.7
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
  5.7
Super fun route. Small cams but especially nuts work best, with one larger piece for above the roof. I always clip the piton with a long quickdraw. Gear is a little tricky in general, especially around the crux so it's not the best beginner lead IMO. The crux is fun friction feet on tiny fingerlocks but it's only a couple of moves then jugs to the finish. Jul 8, 2016
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
This is a great beginners trad route that should not be missed if your in the area. It has many options from the crack to face holds and I found it to be safe with good exposure for a short trad line. Here are some long arm pics of me solo leading with classic. Have Fun I know I Did ...






Jul 28, 2015
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Finally led it clean!! WOOHOOO!!

vimeo.com/74869911 Sep 20, 2013
ChaseLeoncini
San Diego, California
  5.8
ChaseLeoncini   San Diego, California
  5.8
I recently tried to onsight this with a full rack of c4's, a few c3's and a set of bd stoppers and used only 4 cams. If your gonna do this route, double up on small wires and only bring .75 - 3. Apr 25, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
Fun climb, another favorite at MG. Good practice for placing your thin gear (tiny cams or wires) if you're into that sort of thing. Stay true to the crack for more excitement. Mar 31, 2013
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
One of my favorite lines at the Gorge. Feels pretty stout for a 5.7 to me. Easy climbing for the first ~20 ft before the crack thins out and you've got to commit to a few slabs moves with less than stellar protection. Once you reach the dihedral, the protection gets a little better, but it's pretty sustained climbing without a really good rest until just before the roof. Double up on small stoppers if you can; you'll want them. I also like a #3 C4 for just over the roof. Feb 25, 2013
millz
Canon CIty!
  5.8
millz   Canon CIty!
  5.8
fantastic face moves protected by nuts and small cams! and the a nice little 5.7 roof for the cherry on top. great trad lead! Nov 23, 2012
agd
  5.7
agd  
  5.7
Great route - definitely one of my favoriate at the gorge. Has one committing friction move before placing a small nut. There's an ancient-looking pin to the right before pulling the roof - I usually clip it, but back it up with a yellow C4. Feb 8, 2012
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
  5.8
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
  5.8
agree with both parties above. A good solid climb with a very enjoyable feel on lead, the small gear makes for some fun piece setting. Jul 9, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Best crack in MG, IMHO. Sweet and fairly sustained for the grade; protects well on small pieces. Don't cheat yourself by starting from atop Lunch Rock - take this one right off the ground.

Shad - ouch! But glad you enjoyed it. Jan 27, 2008
Make sure to bring small wires, even a couple rp's if you arent trusting your feet yet on mission gorge's slickery rock. The crack is pretty banged out, so trying to place cams seems tricky, sucks up the little wires though. This route would be ultra classic if it was longer and located somewhere beautiful. Oct 28, 2007