Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Steve McKinney, Dan Molnar
Page Views: 16,791 total · 104/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

163 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


Move upward using the main crack system to a sloping stance on highly textured, orange rock. Continue upward through the crux of the climb by stemming up a wide dihedral that is well protected with small gear in a thin crack on the left. Pull over a small roof and continue on easier ground to the anchor.


Standard rack. Two bolt anchor. Rap bolts.


Make sure to bring small wires, even a couple rp's if you arent trusting your feet yet on mission gorge's slickery rock. The crack is pretty banged out, so trying to place cams seems tricky, sucks up the little wires though. This route would be ultra classic if it was longer and located somewhere beautiful. Oct 28, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Best crack in MG, IMHO. Sweet and fairly sustained for the grade; protects well on small pieces. Don't cheat yourself by starting from atop Lunch Rock - take this one right off the ground.

Shad - ouch! But glad you enjoyed it. Jan 27, 2008
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
agree with both parties above. A good solid climb with a very enjoyable feel on lead, the small gear makes for some fun piece setting. Jul 9, 2011
a d
Los Angeles, CA
a d   Los Angeles, CA
Great route - definitely one of my favoriate at the gorge. Has one committing friction move before placing a small nut. There's an ancient-looking pin to the right before pulling the roof - I usually clip it, but back it up with a yellow C4. Feb 8, 2012
millz Millz
Canon CIty!
millz Millz   Canon CIty!
fantastic face moves protected by nuts and small cams! and the a nice little 5.7 roof for the cherry on top. great trad lead! Nov 23, 2012
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
One of my favorite lines at the Gorge.Easy climbing for the first ~20 ft before the crack thins out and you've got to commit to a few slabs moves with less than stellar protection. Once you reach the dihedral, the protection gets a little better, but it's pretty sustained climbing without a really good rest until just before the roof. Take all the small stuff you can; you'll want them. I also like a #3 C4 for just over the roof. Feb 25, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
Fun climb, another favorite at MG. Good practice for placing your thin gear (tiny cams or wires) if you're into that sort of thing. Stay true to the crack for more excitement. Mar 31, 2013
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
I recently tried to onsight this with a full rack of c4's, a few c3's and a set of bd stoppers and used only 4 cams. If your gonna do this route, double up on small wires and only bring .75 - 3. Apr 25, 2013
Encinitas, CA
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
Finally led it clean!! WOOHOOO!!

vimeo.com/74869911 Sep 20, 2013
This is a great beginners trad route that should not be missed if your in the area. It has many options from the crack to face holds and I found it to be safe with good exposure for a short trad line. Here are some long arm pics of me solo leading with classic. Have Fun I know I Did ...

Jul 28, 2015
Scotty Dusek
San Diego
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
Super fun route. Small cams but especially nuts work best, with one larger piece for above the roof. I always clip the piton with a long quickdraw. Gear is a little tricky in general, especially around the crux so it's not the best beginner lead IMO. The crux is fun friction feet on tiny fingerlocks but it's only a couple of moves then jugs to the finish. Jul 8, 2016
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
Me and partner both agree that this is probably the best climb in the gorge, only surpassing craigs crack due to length and accessibility. The piton is bomber. If you want to place gear that will actually catch a fall in the small parts of the crack bring a smaller offset nuts and you can sew it up nice and safe. Cams would probably just walk out of those shallow scars. Sep 18, 2016
M Meyers  
Small C3s work well on this route. Apr 30, 2018