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Routes in Lunch Rock

Beautiful T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cactus Flower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Can't touch this TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clear Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lunch Rock Left Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Right Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lunch Rock Slab TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mission Control S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Walk T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ramp Arete TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Arete T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skyline Face T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Skyline Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairs, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Steps, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trauma, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
True Skyline Arete T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Waiting for Bruce S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Your Lead S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,170 total, 30/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Mar 31, 2009
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This climb starts 15’ to the left and up from Mission Control. Follow the obvious hand crack up across a series of big ledges to the base of the orange block at the top of the pinnacle. Climb the orange face to the top, passing two bolts. The major portion of this climb is very easy trad, probably no harder than 5.4 which is too bad; were there less ledges and more verticality, this could be a really great crack. But this climb is all about the orange block, which offers some real fun and somewhat exposed movement over moderate ground. Skyline Pinnacle does not lend itself well to top-roping; better to lead and follow. There is no bolted anchor. To descend, scramble down to the east (away from the climb) and then follow the 3rd/4th class gully back to the trail/base of the rock.

Protection

2 bolts, pro to 3"
gear anchor

Photos

Nathan Sward  
 
Really, really enjoyed this route! The first 60 feet was very benign (perhaps 5.5) and easy to protect. The last 20 feet on the orange block was a blast. There are a few moves on it that I think are a bit stiffer than 5.7; perhaps 5.8. Lots of exposure makes for a great top-out experience!

There's currently a C4 wedged hopelessly on top of the pinnacle. I used this to tend a sling around the boulder and added one additional piece to set the top rope. May 20, 2015
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.7
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.7
It's extremely easy to build an anchor for TR on this. You can sling the very top of orange face with a large cordelette(we used a 30ft?). The rope had zero drag. You can even place gear in the rear to keep the cord in place like I did if it concerns you, but I didn't feel it was necessary. I would say that it is probably better to lead it first to setup TR than to hike up the side/back. Mar 30, 2014
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Led this back in July 2012. Fun route!! Love the exposure at the top.

vimeo.com/45853653 Sep 20, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.8
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.8
One of my favorites at MG, due to it's length and the cool belay perch. Down low the climbing is super easy with great stances, and takes plenty of gear. The moves onto the orange face feel exposed and harder than 5.7, but protect well.

Requires some creativity to build a solid anchor. I usually wedge myself amongst the upper blocks and sling one of the big boulders with the rope, then belay off my harness. Mar 31, 2013
agd
agd  
Anchor Beta: Set the anchor about 20 feet back after topping out. There's a small flake/horn you can sling, as well as a crack to the left of it that will take medium and medium-small cam.

I would not advise using the bird's beak looking rock to set an anchor. While it *seems* totally solid, if it happened to come loose it would have devastating consequences to the ubiquitous groups below.

This route really should NOT be TR'd. May 25, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
TR'd. Fun route. Definitely need a 70M rope if the belayer belays on the 1st ledge. 60M will do if the belayer belays on the upper ledge just below the beginning of the route. Love the move to the orange face climb where there's 2 bolts. Build an anchor up top for TR'ng. When using TR, run the rope to the last bolt w/ a quick draw for back up. Aug 17, 2011
saltlick
  5.7+
saltlick  
  5.7+
+1 on the quality of the crack on this climb - if only it were steeper! The moves onto the "Pinnacle" near the top feel harder than .7 to me... Oct 28, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
In the new Kennedy-Hubbard guide book this climb is simply known as “Skyline”. “Skyline Pinnacle” comes from the old (early 90’s) guide pamphlet for Mission Gorge. Mar 31, 2009