All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak Creek > Oak Creek Spire Area > Oak Creek Spire
North Face/West Crack
Avg: 3.3 from 54 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Webster, Sue Patenaude, May 1979|
|Page Views:||9,763 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Climber on Jan 23, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionOak Creek Spire is a classic double-summited Sedona spire with a rabbit-ears profile. This tower tends to have a lot more loose rock than other towers in Sedona, so a little extra caution is advised. The highlight of climbing OCS is the (in)famous "jump move" on the lead of the third pitch, where you have to leap across a gap between the spire's ears to a small stance on the far side. Exciting stuff!
For the North Face-West Crack, start on the North side in a right-facing corner (see pictures).
P1) Climb initial corner crack, then either go straight up, or out onto the face and climb to a steep exit slot and a pair of belay bolts. Move the belay from here up to a ledge just below the next pitch crack.
P2) Climb the tight-hands crack to gain the flared chimney above. If you have big hands, this may feel like 10-. Once in the flare, climb to the big blocky chimney above. You can belay here if you want to break it up a bit, or just continue up the blocky chimney the top of the lower OCS tower. This lead is about 185 feet if you go all the way.
P3) Locate the proper jump, down on a lower ledge across from the other tower. Get some slack and make the leap of faith. Not a good idea to fall. Then climb left, then up, then back right and up a last crack to a (visible from the jump spot)bolted anchor on the wall. The actual summit is another ten feet higher and includes a mailbox. Belay up to and down from here accordingly.
DescentRap from the chains down to the lower (northern) summit. Then go find an anchor overlooking the north face (above pitches 2 & 3) and rappel down to the ledges above the first pitch. From there, one more rap from the anchor atop pitch 1 will get you back down.
Note: Not sure if you have to have two ropes to do that rappel from the north summit down to the ledges. Maybe someone can clarify for sure.