Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ed Webster, Sue Patenaude, May 1979
Page Views: 10,839 total · 66/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 23, 2006 with improvements by Scott Krankkala
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Oak Creek Spire is a classic double-summited Sedona spire with a rabbit-ears profile. This tower tends to have a lot more loose rock than other towers in Sedona, so a little extra caution is advised. The highlight of climbing OCS is the (in)famous "jump move" on the lead of the third pitch, where you have to leap across a gap between the spire's ears to a small stance on the far side. Exciting stuff!

For the North Face-West Crack, start on the North side in a right-facing corner (see pictures).

P1) Climb initial corner crack, then either go straight up, or out onto the face and climb to a steep exit slot and a pair of belay bolts. Move the belay from here up to a ledge just below the next pitch crack.

P2) Climb the tight-hands crack to gain the flared chimney above. If you have big hands, this may feel like 10-. Once in the flare, climb to the big blocky chimney above. You can belay here if you want to break it up a bit, or just continue up the blocky chimney the top of the lower OCS tower. This lead is about 185 feet if you go all the way.

P3) Locate the proper jump, down on a lower ledge across from the other tower. Get some slack and make the leap of faith. Not a good idea to fall. Then climb left, then up, then back right and up a last crack to a (visible from the jump spot)bolted anchor on the wall. The actual summit is another ten feet higher and includes a mailbox. Belay up to and down from here accordingly.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot, two ropes, HELMET!!

Descent

Route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope. From the anchors after the jump rappel to the top of the sub-tower. There are red anchor bolts with quicklinks. Rappel straight down to two bolts and links on the face for the route La Quinta. From those bolts trend climbers left to two bolts at the top of the first pitch.

Photos