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Routes in Oak Creek Spire

"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Beast Master T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Quinta T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face/West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poquito Bandito T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Peabody, Snyder
Page Views: 452 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeff Peabody on Dec 4, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

La Quinta is the splitter crack system left of the regular route. This two pitch variation is a fun addition, avoids the block party on the regular route, and is a nice rappel option if you're not rapping with two ropes.

Pitch 1: 5.8+

Start on pitch 1 of regular route.

Pitch 2: 5.10

Route begins left of regular route on large ledge. Start on right hand crack. Traverse on hand rail to offwidth crux and continue on hand crack thinning to .5 roof, jug crimps to pull the lip.

Pitch 3: 5.9+

Continue up corner system through sandy beach ledges to #4 stem bulge. Traverse out to bolt, go full Mace and ditch the helmet under roof and pull lip gaining #6 crack with a variety of patina edges for feet and holds.

This route is an homage to my time spent in hotels as a rope tech, living in La Quita inns and refusing to give up my love for choss, adventure, and cousinry. Also confirmed by this urban dictionary definition:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=La+Quinta

Location

Crack system to the left of the regular route on pitch 1 ledge.

Protection

Runners, Single set c3, doubles to #3. Single #4, #6. (optional #5 to build anchor for jump across)

Photos

J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
One of my more favorite days in Sandona. Two great pitches on top of each other. Splitters, traverses, roofs, oh my.

Dare I say... possibly a better 'full value' option to summit this classic tower. Dec 4, 2015