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Routes in Oak Creek Spire

"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Beast Master T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Quinta T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face/West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poquito Bandito T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: J.Snyder
Page Views: 1,121 total, 24/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Dec 30, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Poquito Bandito is a aesthetic and steep mixed route that sits in the center sun-vortex of Oak Creek Spire's South Face. Reminiscent of Indian Creek with trademark characteristics of Sedona, this short but fierce pitch will try and steal the send.

Start up jumbled terrain, clean your shoes and start up steep fingers to a short rest. Fire the tips boulder problem to a ledge. Switch gears and power tech-mantle your way through 3 bolts to the anchor.

Please be courteous to dry rock and the current location of requisite features...

Location

Approach as you would for Oak Creek Spire. Poquito Bandito sits center of the sunny South Face above large boulders in a scree field. There is a faint trail that leads up the S.East slick rock ridge towards the original rappels of O.C.S.

Protection

Small Rack:
C4 #1
C4 .4 x 2
C4 .3 x 2
3 bolts
2 bolt anchor
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
  5.12a
Dyno beta for the win. That last tips jam just insecure/painful enough to prevent establishing my feet much higher. However, couldn't clean it up enough on my second go to stick it for a send. Fun route. Feb 5, 2017
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Laura said she dyno'd?! Dyno bonus points for sure Mar 3, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Awesome work! I agree depending on your tip size and your reach those moves are variable and can be a little nasty. The blocks jugs up top do have a bit of a wobble but were tested with my strongest of punches. Im sure Sedona will swallow them eventually and naturally when the entire tower falls Southward... so I suppose pull down not out! Feb 8, 2016
Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Fun route! Man, that tips section is really hard! Didn't get it clean - so can't officially rate it, but felt a lot harder than 11+!

Upper bolted section was rad too! Although the medium sized block right before moving over the to the 3rd bolt on the arete seemed a bit loose. Feb 8, 2016