Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Oak Creek Spire

"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Beast Master T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Quinta T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face/West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poquito Bandito T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Z. Harrison, J.Snyder
Page Views: 2,899 total, 127/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Jan 26, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Have you climbed 'Southern Revival' and felt a bit...unsatisfied? This 2 bolt variation might leave you feeling a bit less weak. Clip the last bolt on the 1st pitch and move left past bolt to a belay. Now tip your head back and eye the next 39 meters carefully. Snort some 'roids and prepare to get raw ripped.

Move left on munge past a bolt and techy tick-tack through the tips crack. Sport layback to a rest and hope you didn't blow all your .5's yet...

More sports laybacking up through steep thin hands to the change in crack orientation and pretend to rest. Gather your wits for the final slightly tricky and exposed "5.10c Boulder Problem".

Barf up your protein shake onto the Tanning Salon. Perch out left to clip anchor.

You are now a Beast Master! For extra credit, continue up the rest of 'Southern Revival'. Invent more stars!

Location

South Face of Oak Creek Spire. Left of 'Southern Revival'.

Protection

Gear:
2x #00 C3 - #.3 C4
3x #.4 C4 and #.75 C4
5x #.5 C4
2x #1 C4

Bonus cams for first encounter:
2x #2 C4
1x #.3C4- #1 C4
80m Rope Mandatory for lower!!!
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Hey Josh,
The Beast Master pitch is a variation of the 2nd and 3rd pitch of S.Revival and climbs only 20 or so feet to the left. It is well worth the detour! Its been very warm out there so try to make the trip on a cooler day if possible!

Although you will need to add bonus gear to the rack for this pitch you will most certainly want to bring the #4's along also! They are very useful on the 1st pitch and for the parking lot pitch up higher once you rejoin with S.Revival on the Tanning Salon.

But I suppose if you decide neah on the 4s... your man-parts will suffice for gear in the crack! Mar 1, 2016
Josh Janes    
When going to climb Southern Revival, should one climb this or the original pitch? If one climbs this, can one get away without #4 Camalots on the route? Mar 1, 2016
Matt S  
all steaks go to Laura, for the second ascent onsite.
or that green stuff she eats. Feb 25, 2016
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
Its tempting to drive down from the rainy PNW just for the splitter. Don't tempt us with steak too! Feb 17, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Spectacular. A two year process from start to finish, possible only because our forearms are now at least 8 inches bigger. Ill buy Sedona's biggest steak for the next party that goes up this thing. Jan 27, 2016
Zach Harrison
  5.12-
Zach Harrison  
  5.12-
Simply amazing all time classic! Hands down the best pitch I have been fortunate enough to climb on the beloved Sand. Jan 26, 2016