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Routes in Oak Creek Spire

"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Beast Master T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Quinta T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face/West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poquito Bandito T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 560 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Z.Harrison, J.Snyder
Page Views: 3,406 total, 75/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Southern Revival climbs the grand dihedral system on the South Face of Oak Creek Spire. Stunning positioning, steep and sustained climbing, and challenging difficulties potentially make Southern Revival the hardest, free standing summit route in Sedona. An obvious system of steep cracks will take climbers through striking corners, demanding boulder problems and puckering ooh-aahh exposure.

Historical and FA information:
Correct historical information of previous attempts at the South Face dihedrals is mostly unknown. Tim Toula’s “A Cheap Way to Die” identifies a Michael Lawson (aid?) route that was started in the South Dihedrals, and ascended two pitches, unfinished to top. M.Lawson denied any involvement and found no information in his notes on the mystery astronauts. On early attempts five self-drive recalled Leeper bolts were found and removed on the first pitch. One, “anchor bolt”, sporting homemade rap steel, came out voluntarily by hand! Necessary protection bolts were modernized; two rusty dinosaurs remain for the hilarity of historical purpose. Five days of exploration and equipping were necessary before a complete team free effort.

P1 Remind yourself where you are and begin up the not so ghetto Indian Creek splitter in a striking dihedral. As the seas widen, clip two modern bolts and chim-stem your way to a two bolt anchor on the surf board. Ride gently and don’t clip the recalled leepers! 100’ 5.10

P2 Move up through obligatory OW, through a series of short and steep boulder problems, and into the left splitter of New Jersey Flake. Climb steep thin hands and fingers, find your sequence and move into a steep fist crack before finding a bolted anchor. 85’ 5.11

P3 Climb steep, thinning hands to fingers in an arching dihedral. Guano friction is high. Exit the steep roof as a cowboy and mantle into the Tanning Salon. Wow Pitch! 5.11+ 70’
-Possible to Rappel back to ground with (2)70M-

P4 Move belay left (#.3-#3 C4). From the Tanning Bed climb up fingers and thin hands to a pod below a small roof. Clip a bolt, lycra up and get sporty! Traverse right and move into varied cracks and spooky holds. Move left onto a ledge below the mini-splitter. Optional Belay ( #.75-#2). Climb mini-splitter and move right, clip a bolt and climb unlikely grip tape holds to an airy mantle. Avoid a 1000lb rope, many runners! 105’ 5.12
-Possible to escape right and rappel into the East Chim bowling alley. Keep yer dome bucket covered! Anchors are relic. (1)70m-

P5 Initiate JB Honorary Traverse. Make exposed moves down and to a blocky stance. Move west through curious features on great rock. From a small ledge move down into a delicate traverse on psychedelic rock. Tingly position. 3 bolts 85’ 5.9

P6 Move up through thin hands and varied features. Electric slide left and move into a tricky wide hands bulge. Pull onto the Peyote block and squabble up through the gargoyles. A Sedona textbook finale. 115’ 5.10

Location

Approach as you would for Oak Creek Spire. Southern Revival starts in the recognizable dihedrals on the South Face of Oak Creek Spire. Follow a good trail below the South Face and hike up a slip and slide to the right of a scree field. Route will be evident.

Descent:
Rappel the standard route of the North Face. It is possible to rappel with a single 70m with the use the intermediate slung webbing anchor. Use caution! From base of N. Face descend east along a faint climbers trail and back to the South Face of O.C.S.

Protection

#0 Green C3 x1
#1 Red C3 x1
Doubles:
#.3-#4 C4
Runners, Q.Draws
70M
Zach Harrison
  5.12-
Zach Harrison  
  5.12-
For the sake of, um...research, the old bolt on the first pitch has held a lead fall... and was then pulled by hand. Jan 23, 2016
Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12b
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12b
Climbed this route for the second time recently, and would have to agree with Eric's comment. while the rock quality might not be as good as shangri-la, this route is much more classic for sedona. Lots of steep thin hands, powerful laybacking, and desperate mantles. the crux is one of the more unique sequences i've ever done on sandstone. Not to mention you get to top out the most bitchin spire in Sandland! Dec 24, 2015
Eric D
Gnarnia
 
Eric D   Gnarnia
 
The best route in Sedona. Dec 19, 2015
t.schwartz  
 
Yeehaw! This thing was varied and plain out fun! The crux boulder problem was something straight out of the gym, including heal hooks and swinging campus moves with number #4 camalots shimmering in the sunshine! This route is Chossome! Dec 6, 2015
Indeed one of the best routes in and around Sedona. Thin hands love it most of the way :-)! You need an over- ape- index arm stretch for the crux. Proud tower ascent, Jeff and Zach!
Mar 11, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Best tower route in Sedona?!?! Half the pitches are overhanging! We did the 2nd ascent and I only got sand in my eyes once! Thanks for the work Jeff and Zach, especially with all of the good hardware!
The crux is a monster, but you have a bolt right in your face!
A few small runouts you should be ready for, mainly the 8' of unprotected OW starting the 2nd pitch (too big for a #6?) and the "grip tape" slopers finish at the end of the crux pitch. There's a bolt at the start but like the description says you'll want a long runner on every piece for P4 or you'll really be hating life if you have bad rope drag for the finishing mantle; if you blow it you'll be in for a long (but safe) ride! Jan 24, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
One of the best route write ups ive seen here in a while. Looks awesome!! Good job team! Mar 29, 2014