Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Marty Woerner, 1971
Page Views: 303 total · 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This route takes the plumline up the face and features the hardest climbing of all the routes on the Weeping Wall.

P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue straight up past two widely spaced bolts (5.10a) to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) Two more bolts up an waterstreak (5.10c) on this short but cruxy pitch. P3) Five more bolts (5.10a) will see you to the top of the face. Descend via Bye Gully.

Protection

bolts, gear to 2.5"

Photos

Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c
Although this might be rated R by some folks, the holds on this route seem to be there just when one needs them. This is a great route with an obvious crux just above the middle of the route, the balance being easier but not a give-a-way. Sep 23, 2006
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10c
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10c
I agree no real chance of getting hurt on this climb holds are there and if you pay attention to your feet no problem. Beautiful line! Feb 18, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
I'd definitely consider the first pitch runout, with .10- moves way out from your last bolt. I remember my shoes making a lot of squeaking noises, or was that just me? May 19, 2008
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10c PG13
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10c PG13
A fun route with some runouts, but definitely not as "R" as Ten Karat Gold. The bolts protect the cruxes well. The second (crux) pitch is a bit contrived/squeezed and the 10c moves can be relatively easily avoided by traversing right 8-10 feet away from the smears on the smooth orange rock to the crisp edges of Revelation. I thought the 3rd pitch was the best with the most sustained climbing of the three. Jun 1, 2010
Eric Foltz
California
  5.10c R
Eric Foltz   California
  5.10c R
Looks like someone added a bolt to the first pitch about halfway between bolt #2 and the belay station.

It's in kind of a strange location over near the end of the "ramp" on the second pitch of Surprise. I wasn't looking for another bolt so I climbed right past it about 6' to the right following the natural line of holds.

It might just be there to keep you from straying too far right and ending up on Revelation. Sep 10, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Cool, a free bolt hanger! Sep 11, 2010
x15x15  
this is climbing, there is always a real chance of getting hurt. i witnessed a fall on duck soup back in 1986(or 87)from the comforts of ten karot gold. it was long, hard, and bad. the climber suffered a fractured heel bone and was out of commission for 4 months.

remember folks, climbing can lead to death rather quickly, even on the "safe" routes. Sep 11, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Didn't feel anymore "R" than anything else on the wall. I hung out at the crux a bunch then took chance and went left which worked out nicely.

I clipped 3 bolts on the first pitch, the first on Revelation and the two as listed on route in the Gaines/Vogel. Mar 22, 2016