Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (m) The Weeping Wall

Bathsheba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Change in the Weather T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Clam Chowder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Commencement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dire Straits T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Duck Soup T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Revelation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sampson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Surprise Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ten Karat Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
White Line Fever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Marty Woerner, 1971
Page Views: 153 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route takes the plumline up the face and features the hardest climbing of all the routes on the Weeping Wall.

P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue straight up past two widely spaced bolts (5.10a) to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) Two more bolts up an waterstreak (5.10c) on this short but cruxy pitch. P3) Five more bolts (5.10a) will see you to the top of the face. Descend via Bye Gully.

Protection

bolts, gear to 2.5"

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Didn't feel anymore "R" than anything else on the wall. I hung out at the crux a bunch then took chance and went left which worked out nicely.

I clipped 3 bolts on the first pitch, the first on Revelation and the two as listed on route in the Gaines/Vogel. Mar 22, 2016
x15x15  
this is climbing, there is always a real chance of getting hurt. i witnessed a fall on duck soup back in 1986(or 87)from the comforts of ten karot gold. it was long, hard, and bad. the climber suffered a fractured heel bone and was out of commission for 4 months.

remember folks, climbing can lead to death rather quickly, even on the "safe" routes. Sep 11, 2010
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Cool, a free bolt hanger! Sep 11, 2010
Eric Foltz
California
  5.10c R
Eric Foltz   California
  5.10c R
Looks like someone added a bolt to the first pitch about halfway between bolt #2 and the belay station.

It's in kind of a strange location over near the end of the "ramp" on the second pitch of Surprise. I wasn't looking for another bolt so I climbed right past it about 6' to the right following the natural line of holds.

It might just be there to keep you from straying too far right and ending up on Revelation. Sep 10, 2010
Adam Kimmerly
  5.10c PG13
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10c PG13
A fun route with some runouts, but definitely not as "R" as Ten Karat Gold. The bolts protect the cruxes well. The second (crux) pitch is a bit contrived/squeezed and the 10c moves can be relatively easily avoided by traversing right 8-10 feet away from the smears on the smooth orange rock to the crisp edges of Revelation. I thought the 3rd pitch was the best with the most sustained climbing of the three. Jun 1, 2010
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
I'd definitely consider the first pitch runout, with .10- moves way out from your last bolt. I remember my shoes making a lot of squeaking noises, or was that just me? May 19, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10c
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10c
I agree no real chance of getting hurt on this climb holds are there and if you pay attention to your feet no problem. Beautiful line! Feb 18, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c
Although this might be rated R by some folks, the holds on this route seem to be there just when one needs them. This is a great route with an obvious crux just above the middle of the route, the balance being easier but not a give-a-way. Sep 23, 2006