Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (m) The Weeping Wall

Bathsheba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Change in the Weather T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Clam Chowder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Commencement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dire Straits T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Duck Soup T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Revelation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sampson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Surprise Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ten Karat Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
White Line Fever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Allen & Kenji Haroutunian, September 1988
Page Views: 502 total, 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a sustained, high quality one-pitch face route at the right edge of the Weeping Wall. There are long runouts getting up to the first bolt, and going from the second bolt up to the top. This route will force you to think about your footwork!

Protection

two bolts, plus gear for the belay at the base, and perhaps for a placement or two before the face climbing starts

Photos

- No Photos -
dnaiscool  
 
I agree with Keny on this one. Every area has routes that are defined by the courage it will take to lead them. This route, at .10b, in THE route of this flavor on the Weeping Wall. But it is not out of character for the immediate area, because not more than 50 feet to the right is another character-defining climb: Rebolting Development (.11a) and a fall from the crux on that route has ended in broken bones...more than once.

Suicide Rock has never been a "sport climbing" crag, especially on the routes where bolts provide the only means of protection, and anyone with the skills and the courage required to lead Change in the Weather will find the send most gratifying...Better be a solid 5.11 slab climber...just sayin'...

Kenji went on to become the Executive Director of the entire Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City. One of his early climbing experiences was working out in the outdoor climbing specific gym I built in a parking structure at my dorm while going to UCLA...that was back in 1983. John, Kenji and I all worked as climbing guides for A-16 back in the late 80's and early 90's, and we took a lot of clients to Suicide BITD. Apr 10, 2015
Keny Glasscock
Salt Lake City
Keny Glasscock   Salt Lake City
Kudos to Kenji and Johnny. The days of balls are sadly over. Awesome route way back then. Oct 20, 2012
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
This route is badly bolted. Why put the bolt after the crux when there are stances to bolt before the crux? Purposely runout routes make crappy routes IMO... might as well solo it. May 19, 2008
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Yup! Got to about 3 feet from topping out on this one, but downclimbed the whole thing because I didn't want to risk the 40 foot fall onto the ledge. Mar 21, 2007
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
The crux on this one is probably 20 feet out from the last bolt. Sep 25, 2006