Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ivan Couch and Mike Dent, August, 1970.
Page Views: 3,215 total · 20/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This classic slab route goes up the center of the Weeping Wall, with two hanging belays en route. Pitch 2 (5.10A) is very sustained. Pitch 3 (5.10A) has the hardest move on the climb. It is in the sun until mid-afternoon.

Protection

Mostly bolts, with one small cam or wired nut 15' off the ground, plus some long slings and a few cams for the belay at the top of the climb.

Photos

Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Really fun climb. P2 has a little bulge crux about half way up after some sustained climbing. We climbed it on a semi hot day, my feet were on fire! P3 was shorter and less sustained. I did not think it was harder than p2. Aug 21, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
I placed a Yellow Alien and #1 camalot on the first pitch, and then slung the tree at the top. So that's the only gear you'll need. Use caution to follow the correct line of bolts on the second pitch - we ended up on the neighboring route (Duck Soup?) for a few bolts. Still went at about 5.10a :) And I had done this route many times years ago and still got lost! Sep 4, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a/b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a/b
An outstanding face climb. May 10, 2007
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10a
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10a
Get on this one early it has always backed up with people fast on weekends. Feb 18, 2008
Brad G  
I thought this was alot harder then Sun Dance May 30, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Agreed, outstanding climb - massive fun. Jan 13, 2010
Chad N
Central California
 
Chad N   Central California
 
good slab ride!
minimal rack beta: 1 #1 bd c4 cam, then 1 metolius blue mastercam down on P1, 5 shoulder sling draws, and 6 long quickdraws. I like shoulder slings on the first couple clips to minimize rope drag. Sling the big bomber tree atop P3 for anchor. Mar 30, 2013