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Routes in (m) The Weeping Wall

Bathsheba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Change in the Weather T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Clam Chowder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Commencement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dire Straits T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Duck Soup T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Green Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Revelation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sampson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Surprise Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ten Karat Gold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
White Line Fever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ivan Couch and Mike Dent, August, 1970.
Page Views: 3,155 total · 20/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This classic slab route goes up the center of the Weeping Wall, with two hanging belays en route. Pitch 2 (5.10A) is very sustained. Pitch 3 (5.10A) has the hardest move on the climb. It is in the sun until mid-afternoon.


Mostly bolts, with one small cam or wired nut 15' off the ground, plus some long slings and a few cams for the belay at the top of the climb.


Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Really fun climb. P2 has a little bulge crux about half way up after some sustained climbing. We climbed it on a semi hot day, my feet were on fire! P3 was shorter and less sustained. I did not think it was harder than p2. Aug 21, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
I placed a Yellow Alien and #1 camalot on the first pitch, and then slung the tree at the top. So that's the only gear you'll need. Use caution to follow the correct line of bolts on the second pitch - we ended up on the neighboring route (Duck Soup?) for a few bolts. Still went at about 5.10a :) And I had done this route many times years ago and still got lost! Sep 4, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
An outstanding face climb. May 10, 2007
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
Get on this one early it has always backed up with people fast on weekends. Feb 18, 2008
Brad G  
I thought this was alot harder then Sun Dance May 30, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Agreed, outstanding climb - massive fun. Jan 13, 2010
Chad N
Central California
Chad N   Central California
good slab ride!
minimal rack beta: 1 #1 bd c4 cam, then 1 metolius blue mastercam down on P1, 5 shoulder sling draws, and 6 long quickdraws. I like shoulder slings on the first couple clips to minimize rope drag. Sling the big bomber tree atop P3 for anchor. Mar 30, 2013

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