Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,819 total · 8/month
Shared By: George Bell on May 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A significant roof bars easy access to the East Face of Red Devil (Berserker goes through the left side of this roof). This route begins at the far right side of this roof. Hike up the fern filled gully between Red Devil and Unicorn (the rock to the right of Red Devil). This soon turns to a slab right where the overhang runs out.

P1: Step/chimney onto the slab and head up and left. You may find a piece or two early on, but I found the first 40' or so to be rather unprotected. The rock here is quite red, clean and generally excellent. Occasional odd, knobby cracks give excellent protection, but the upper part of this pitch also involves runouts of 30' or more. It is about 65m to a pair of small pine trees (the route here merges with the upper part of Berserker). Belay here or rig a belay lower in one of the knobby cracks.

P2: Continue up an easier face with more lichen and several more trees. A large ledge will soon be reached. You can belay here or continue on up to the top (from the pair of small trees, it's about 50m to the top). There is [now a 2 bolt anchor on the south side of the summit from Hell Freezes Over.]

Walk off to the west.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack. Small/medium cams work well on this face, large stoppers or medium hexes would also work well in several spots. Bring long slings for trees and knobs.

Photos