Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
Routes in Red Devil
|Berserker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|East Face Right/Red Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hell in a Bucket S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Paradise Lost S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||131 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Warren Teissier on Oct 24, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a great route although it is not very protectable. To quote Gerry Roach, "protection may seem lacking when it is wanted the most". I would give it a VS, but both Roach and Rossiter gave it an S, and who am I to argue with them....
If interested in doing the route without the death risk, you can climb the South Face route, rappel to the bottom of the chimney above the overhang and top rope the first two pitches from there (60 meter rope)....
The rock is great, the moves are interesting and clean: some edging, some jamming, some friction and if you choose so, even some laybacking....
Start at the low point of the rock and scramble up an easy water groove to the bottom of the overhang. Traverse left and up an easy ramp at the bottom of the overhang and belay at a small tree.
The second pitch (crux) climbs the overhang just left of the tree. This will be your last pro for a long time (and won't stop you from cratering on the ramp from above the overhang...).
Crank up the overhang (burly 5.6) and make a delicate traverse up and left eventually reaching a left-facing flake. This flake is some 40 feet above and left of the overhang and will provide some pro with mid/large sized cams.
From the top of the flake, you can continue up unprotected 5.6 traversing later to the right or friction traverse right and up (5.5). Either way you should end up with another 40 foot runout and at the base of the chimney. Sling a large horn and take a deep breath.
From here, climb the face on the left of the chimney to the ledge below the summit block (5.3 150 feet), and scramble up the left side of the summit block and up to the summit (5.2 50 feet).
To descend, scramble north and West onto the Mallory Cave trail.