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Red Devil Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Red Devil

L › R R › L A › Z

	Berserker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	East Face Right/Red Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Friend of the Devil TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
	Gonad Sample (submitted as Paradise Lost) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hell in a Bucket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	North Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Super-spreader S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	6,800 ft	2,073 m
GPS:	39.9749, -105.289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	20,271 total · 72/month
Shared By:	Warren Teissier on Oct 25, 2001 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

The Red Devil is the large Flatiron North of Der Zerkle. Like Der Zerkle, its East face is crossed horizontally by a substantial overhang. Above the overhang and close to the center of the face, a Chimney/trough starts and ends just before reaching the ledge for the final summit block. The Red Devil East face is, well, RED. And can be easily spotted from the Mesa trail.

For the most part, the rock is good although on the South (left side) of the red spot the rock is exfoliating some, so don't yank on them flakes too hard. The rock to the left of the chimney is great.

Getting There

To reach the bottom of the East Face, follow the Mallory cave trail to Square Rock and start bushwacking to the North West from here. When you reach the red Devil you will notice the Unicorn, a small Flatiron leaning against the North side of the East face of Red Devil. The Unicorn will block you from going too far to the North.

To reach the South Face continue up the Mallory Cave trail past the original rock pitch to the cave (water groove) and until the trail switch backs two feet from the South face and you are under a blocky dihedral with 2 large trees some 30 feet above. If you continue up the trail you will wind up almost on top of the Red Devil and the descent blocks will be clearly visible.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Devil

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 8 ● Berserker Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 19 ● East Face Right/Red Devil Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 68 ● Gonad Sample (submitted as Parad… Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 38 ● Super-spreader Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 41 ● Hell in a Bucket Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 32 ● Hell Freezes Over Sport 2 pitches