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Routes in Red Devil

Berserker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Face Right/Red Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hell in a Bucket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paradise Lost S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Red Devil is the large Flatiron North of Der Zerkle. Like Der Zerkle, its East face is crossed horizontally by a substantial overhang. Above the overhang and close to the center of the face, a Chimney/trough starts and ends just before reaching the ledge for the final summit block. The Red Devil East face is, well, RED. And can be easily spotted from the Mesa trail.

For the most part, the rock is good although on the South (left side) of the red spot the rock is exfoliating some, so don't yank on them flakes too hard. The rock to the left of the chimney is great.

Getting There

To reach the bottom of the East Face, follow the Mallory cave trail to Square Rock and start bushwacking to the North West from here. When you reach the red Devil you will notice the Unicorn, a small Flatiron leaning against the North side of the East face of Red Devil. The Unicorn will block you from going too far to the North.

To reach the South Face continue up the Mallory Cave trail past the original rock pitch to the cave (water groove) and until the trail switch backs two feet from the South face and you are under a blocky dihedral with 2 large trees some 30 feet above. If you continue up the trail you will wind up almost on top of the Red Devil and the descent blocks will be clearly visible.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Devil

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 13
East Face Right/Red Devil
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Paradise Lost
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Hell in a Bucket
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Hell Freezes Over
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face Right/Red Devil
 13
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Paradise Lost
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hell in a Bucket
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hell Freezes Over
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Red Devil »

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Photos

A new route requiring fixed hardware is being proposed on the south face of the Red Devil. The application for bolting has been received by the FCC for the August 1 cycle. Details of the proposed route can be found here on the FCC site: flatironsclimbing.org/curre…

Please feel free to post any comments you have on the application. The public meeting will be held at the Spot on September 1, 2016 at 6:30, and everyone is welcome to join and vote there. Aug 2, 2016

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