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Routes in Red Devil

Berserker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
East Face Right/Red Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hell in a Bucket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paradise Lost S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 184 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Bell on Oct 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

To find this route, follow the Mallory Cave trail past the cave as it switchbacks up the gully between the Finger Flatiron and Red Devil. On one switchback, the trail passes within 6' of the base of this route, which may be identified by a slot with a tree about 20' up. The trees on this route make for a lot of pine needles on this route, which detract from the climb.

Climb up the slot, passing two trees. Descend a short ramp right, then head up another ramp to the left, ending at a large pine tree (prominent from below) at the edge of a large ledge, 120'. Follow the ledge east 20', and climb a short 50' pitch to the summit (5.0).

Protection

Light rack plus some long slings.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.4
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.4
From the Tree at the top of the first pitch you can also head straight up the vertical face above you to the north and over the slab to the top (5.8-, S). Don't fall for the first 20' as there is no pro there, so you'd hit the ledge. Mar 10, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Always curious about this one. P1 starts in a clump of poison ivy & is 100' almost exactly. I wouldn't rap it with a 60m rope. Partly in shade. Sticky pine tar on last slab. Not much pro on P2. Jul 19, 2003
Rick Casey
Fort Collins, CO
  5.4
Rick Casey   Fort Collins, CO
  5.4
Watch out for the loose rock on the ledge on top where you walk off; one of my partners knocked some off with just the slightest touch. Also: there's broken beer bottle glass on top that needs to be removed, left by some inconsiderate souls.... Jun 18, 2012

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