Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: T. Bubb & J Meir, 9/12/2004 (?)
Page Views: 91 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 12, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Description

This route is a variation of Heave Ho and is being documented separately so as to be easy to locate in the database. Find the route 'Haul Off and Heave' (description provided on this site) and climb the direct start up to reach the pin. From the pin, aim up and right on small face holds aiming for the top out of the huge, red, right-facing, hanging dihedral to the left (the climb 'Heave Ho').

Start (5.11 boulder start to 5.9):...as for Haul Off and Heave: at the base below a roof, setting a few medium stoppers from the ground and a move or two up. I did not use slings on these to avoid a potential groundfall. Pull up on very physical moves (5.11) to get established above the roof. Climb up and left on good holds (5.8?), then back right under a flake, placing a quiver of small cams on long slings, then pull the bulge above it on good holds (5.9). Clip a fixed pin.

Finish (5.10, S): after pulling over the second overhang, you can continue up and left after the pin to hit the top of the cliff at the anchor for 'Heave Ho.' There are no bolts in reach & no pro, but you could preclip the first bolt of H.O.A.H. and come back over.... The holds on this climb are in a good line for the ascent, and the clibing gets easier as you increase the runout. At the top, you may want to place gear in the top of 'Heave Ho' before attempting a top-out, because a fall from there would be very bad news.

A good trad anchor can be built above the climb.

To descend, walk 20m down to a steep 4th-class ramp, or 50m down to the rap from 'Move Like A Stud.'

Protection

The route is more or less a trad route, there is one fixed pin and you could wander right and back to clip a bolt on 'Haul Off and Heave' or intercept 'Heave Ho' and then go back right....

Taks a trad rack including med-large stoppers, a #3.5 Camalot (for an early horizontal) and an assortment of cams from 0.3-1.5". This is a runout route, S at the 10c level, VS at perhaps 10a.

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