Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 561 total · 6/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 12, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Safecracker

This little route offers a lot of great climbing in 25 feet. The route is bolted but is a perfect roof crack and can be done on gear also. My 3 star rating is probably pretty generous, given the length, but it is definitely one of the better routes up there.

Start up with some mildly chossy stemming to reach the start of the roof crack. Place protection (black, blue Aliens), or lean out and clip a bolt. Get ready to start cranking and launch immediately into cruxy climbing. For me, clipping the next protection (bolt or 000 BD C3) was the crux as it was fairly strenuous for my meager guns. Stick with it though as the climbing gets easier as it transitions into a better-sized crack. For the grand finale, thrust yourself up into the steep OW/chimney which is sharp as hell but user friendly.

Location

As soon as you reach Ridge 2, there will be a sizeable roof about 20 feet off the ground. Safecracker splits this roof near the north end by a pine tree. You can't miss it.

Protection

4 bolts or microcams/small stoppers with a couple hand-sized pieces. I used a set of Aliens, a silver BD C3, and a #3 Camalot. If you have the right gear, the crack will take it almost anywhere.

Photos

- No Photos -
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
This route is bad ass I love it! Can't believe it is not more popular. Feb 8, 2017
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Hey! I was there with Alan the day we sent and finished of the routes in the Silver Saddle, too, but we can make no claim here because the route was led on natural gear several years before and named: "Krack-a-Toe-ah". Can't find who until I go through every climbing magazine ever written to find them.

Angus is right on! Jan 8, 2018