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Routes in Ridge 2

Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Safecracker T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Fortner, Birch, Collins, 1989
Page Views: 342 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property issues Details

Description

Ridge two has two sections, the small lower section with 7 known routes, and the upper section, which bears at least 25. A long section of short rock separates them.

Approach the R2 slab by reaching R2, then go up the ridge (West) past the short section. You will come to a solid slab bearing two bolted lines. The left-most of the two routes on this slab is "Slab Left." From the ground, the first thing you will notice is what Rossiter refers to as "precarious flakes", one the size of a microwave, one the size of a refrigerator, and one like a mid-size car. They are in this order from the ground up, which is what makes them look so treacherous. My assessment was that their size and position made them rather secure relative to the mass of a climber. That's a good thing, considering that you start the route by climing on them... (belay to the left). 3 bolts will be immediately visible. These lead to the top of the ridge where one can traverse right (5.8?) to reach the shared anchors (opens) for the two slab routes.

The route is a little strange. Maybe 2 meters left of the route are a bunch of flakes, some of which are semi-rotten or loose. A meter left of the bolts is a good natural line. Belly-to-the-bolts seems unnatural and forced. Perhaps the bolts were pleace so far right to force a climber away from the easy but not-so-good flakes? In any case, the route is pretty good and is worthy of the effort. This is 1/2 slopers and 1/2 solid pebble pinching and edging.

Like its softer twin to the right, the 2* rating for this climb is a 'local.' In other areas, it would not be considered that good due to its meager 17m of height. It is good stone and good moves though; were it 100' tall, it could have been a classic pitch.

Protection

3 bolts to a set of cold "opens" (open coldshuts).

Photos

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