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Routes in Ridge 2

Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: D. Fortner & T. Collins, 1989
Page Views: 74 total · 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 12, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details


This route is just right of 'Haul Off and Heave.' It is distinguished by a tree growing out of it perhaps 4m up, and a hanging flake creating a roof with an OW crack to the left at perhaps 10m up.

Climb up to the tree and sling it (easy) and continue up into a crack to below a hanging flake. Go up behind the flake and clip a stopper (fixed) and some other potential gear, then get back out of the cave. Use long slings. Place another piece of small gear - a tiny red Camalot Jr. fits perfectly, ballnuts may work OK, too, I imagine. Then use *very* surprising, inobvious crux holds to pull up and over the bulge and into the crack above - climb this to a sloping shelf. At the shelf, clip a fixed pin and place as much brass as you feel safe with, then negotiate the final corner indirectly (it might be a short ledge fall if you goof and your nuts pull).

Belay just above the route.

Descend as for other areas route- down to the East to the 4th class downclimb, or further to the rap (red & green webbing) above Move Like A Stud.


One, 2' sling for the tree in the crack at the bottom, then a standard rack + a set of small brass or steel nuts. THe 5" piece Rossiter suggests is more likely to hinder movement than make you feel safe. The route protects well enough without it.


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