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Early Access
Routes in The Citadel
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Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Woke a Dope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.40881, -105.5393 |
| FA: | August, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,748 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Aug 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This was first ascended by Eli Helmuth who equipped the route with Keith Garvey.
This modern mixed route starts in the obvious, right-facing corner approximately 30' left of Heart of Norway. There is a fixed pin in the first dihedral. The route goes right after 40' (a #1 Camalot helpful here) past [three] bolts to join the wide crack system which is part of the route "It Went straight up the Middle". The first pitch crux is at the top of the wide crack where it goes through a small overhang - a bolt protects this crux. It then reaches a wide ledge where there is a two bolt anchor - 95' to the ground from here. This is the same first pitch anchor as for the route Heart of Norway.
The second pitch continues up the beginning of Heart of Norway then steps right after the two overlaps and follows two bolts then small fixed wires up a seam (strenuous liebacking) to a third bolt which protects the second pitch desperate crux and joins the anchors at the top of Heart of Norway (two bolts - 95').
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