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Routes in Sign Crack Area

Disney Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hop, Skip, and a Jump S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paradigm Shift S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sign Crack V2 5+
TR Routes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: [Pat Ackerson]
Page Views: 1,323 total, 7/month
Shared By: allen simons on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

From the paved parking area 1 mile west of the Beige Siphon Tube, hike uphill east to the obvious chimney, (an old Jim Disney route 5.7). Continue north for 60 feet, and turn uphill hiking to the back side of the chimney. 5 bolts. Unclimbed (5.12???) A crucial hold broke off while I was working it and made it to hard for me. Have at it.

Per JFM: there is an alternate approach to Paradigm Shift: a steepish gully just down-canyon from the pullout will follow a more direct line to the route.

Protection

Sport. 5 bolts to a two bolt rap anchor.
Definitely a lower 12. Never climbed the route before the hold broke, but making the traverse through the crux a very powerful move! In my opinion, it's a three route! Nice work on this line! If you're around, definitely give this one a go!! Apr 22, 2010
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
It's a good route to work, The bolts are in wierd spots, but that has to do with the route originally being a hard 10, now with the flake missing (12a) the route kind of meanders. It's got some great moves. 3 stars Apr 19, 2010
allen simons
  5.11c
allen simons  
  5.11c
SWISS, just a little history. I bolted this line quite a few years ago and it was going to go at hard 5.10, with several moves right off the ground that were hard. While working it, I pulled off a 2 foot by 2 foot flake that was key to getting thru what is now the crux area. When that came off, I worked it and worked it but could not do the 2-3 move piece of the crux. I tried to get several people to give it a go and finally Pat Ackerson did it and called it 11c. I climbed with him a bit this summer, and he said he had climbed it again and now felt it was harder than that, maybe 5.12, which is what I suggested to him when I could not climb it. Perhaps he will share his opinion with you. Allen Sep 7, 2007
Sam Miller
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Sam Miller   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Gave it a go with my buddy today and found it to be a bit more difficult than 11c. Wondering if there are any other opinion's or if I just made the route harder than it is by climbing sloppy. Great route though. Nice to get out of the noise of the traffic. Aug 22, 2007
allen simons
  5.11c
allen simons  
  5.11c
Thanks to Pat Ackerson for climbing this previously unclimbed route recently. A rating of 5.11c or so has been suggested by him. And the name of the route is "Paradigm Shift". Thanks Pat! Apr 8, 2005