Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Disney
Page Views: 95 total · 2/month
Shared By: JFM on Jul 18, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious, large chimney that one sees 50 yards above the road when traveling down-canyon. It is about 30 yards left of Hop, Skip, & Jump and is located before the corner around which sits Paradigm Shift.

Start as low as possible in this shoulder-wide slot that gets progressively wider as you ascend. When the (climber's) left wall turns to a ridge, either traverse inside the chimney or go out onto the face -- either way leads to a small overhang to be surmounted before finishing up on the final, ledgy, slab bit.

As one may imagine, many birds like this cool, dark slot to roost in. The bird shit adds a letter grade. Watch out for loose rock.

Location

Access this one of two ways. Either approach as for Hop, Skip, and a Jump, then cut left across the loose scree, or approach from the roadside up a small, steep ramp almost directly below the chimney. Either way, be careful of dislodging rocks that may fall into the road.

Rap from the small pine with a 70m rope, or scramble uphill and climber's left to find a much larger pine from which a rappel will deposit you near the base of Paradigm Shift.

Protection

Gear is generally available where you need it. For a new 5.7 leader, there may be some sections that seem run-out, though over easier climbing. Otherwise, gear from tiny to BD #5 will fit. Doubles in the BD #0.5/#0.75/1 range might help calm the nerves at times.

No bolted belay exists, and the rock immediately at the top-out is of questionable use as anchor-points. Search around to find worthwhile stone or a nearby smallish pine that can also be used to rap (webbing & ring added 7/18/15).

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