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Routes in Sign Crack Area

Disney Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hop, Skip, and a Jump S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paradigm Shift S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sign Crack V2 5+
TR Routes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: allen Simons
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: allen simons on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Hop up the short blocky slab 5.4 past one bolt. Skip left at the top of the slab to the second wall which is set back 8 feet. Hop up the upper section past 5 bolts (bolt 2 is suspect. It is set well but may be in a thick plate that is hollow behind it, 5.4 in that area) Continue up past 3 more bolts, 5.7 crux at 4th bolt of upper slab where moves thin out and become a little reachy. Good easy to moderate lead.

Location

Park 1 mile west of the Beige Siphon Tube in the paved wide spot next to the road. Same as for Sign Crack, Paradigm Shift, Beer Slabs, and Disney Chimney. Hike east up the talus from the parking to some broken slabs 30 feet right of Disney Chimney. Rap bolts are in the best place offered by the rock. They are set back 6 feet behind the top of the climb. One doubled rope rap to bottom. If you don't like the anchors, there is a solid tree 25 feet up and to the right. If you check the beta photo under Paradigm Shift that shows several climbs, this route is just out of the photo to the right.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Did not see much in the way of removable protection.

Photos

JFM
  5.7
JFM  
  5.7
Replaced tree rap station with webbing. Removed frayed tat (10/9/12).

Same rap station still in situ with addition of 8mm cord loop sometime in the last few years (7/18/15). Oct 9, 2012
allen simons  
 
Funny commentary, really. Yeah, this route was kind of put up for the beginning leader, hence the first bolt down low. As far as the anchors, they are in the best place possible. Nothing close to the edge seemed solid enough to me when I set them, so they are back 10 feet. Their position makes top roping the route difficult without and extension sling and I agree, pulling the rope after the rappel is a little stiffer than most routes. I still think it a fun route however. allen Nov 8, 2008