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Punani
V7 YDS 7A+ Font
Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
FA: | Jeff Russell |
Page Views: | 9,982 total · 39/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Mar 2, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This is in the Streambed Boulders (reached from the "old ass building" parking lot at the west entrance to the park). It follows the dramatic overhanging arete on the biggest boulder.Start with the left hand on a sidepull on the overhanging side of the arete, right hand on a sloper. Get a heel, go right to the perfect edge, and then make a big move with body tension or a sweet keep-your-momentum-going-left-then-right move to reach the perfect slopes up top.In my opinion, it is the best problem in Castlewood - clean, beautiful, and with PERFECT movement. A low start is kinda cool, and bumps the grade up to around V9.Watch out for snakes! I ended up falling on the right side, directly next to a bull snake. Thank god it wasn't a rattler, stay aware!
Location
To get there, hike south from the building, cross the stream to the east side, and follow the east shoreline right to the boulders.
Per Dan Russell: follow that trail down until it forks. Take the left fork. After a minute or so you cross a bridge and the trail turns back to the right, paralleling the stream. When it turns back left/uphill/away from the stream, plunge straight ahead across the field. Following the streambed you'll quickly come to many boulders in the streambed itself.
Per Dan Russell: follow that trail down until it forks. Take the left fork. After a minute or so you cross a bridge and the trail turns back to the right, paralleling the stream. When it turns back left/uphill/away from the stream, plunge straight ahead across the field. Following the streambed you'll quickly come to many boulders in the streambed itself.
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