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Routes in Punani Boulder

Craterface V6 7A
Dry Spell V9-10 7C+
Gerbil in a Chute V3-4 6A+
Mole Monkey Work V6- 7A
Pleasure By Ambush V6-7 7A+
Punani V7 7A+
Troll V6 7A
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Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Jeff Russell
Page Views: 7,076 total, 37/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is in the Streambed Boulders (reached from the "old ass building" parking lot at the north entrance to the park). It follows the dramatic overhanging arete on the biggest boulder.

Start with the left hand on a sidepull on the overhanging side of the arete, right hand on a sloper. Get a heel, go right to the perfect edge, and then make a big move with body tension or a sweet keep-your-momentum-going-left-then-right move to reach the perfect slopes up top.

In my opinion, it is the best problem in Castlewood - clean, beautiful, and with PERFECT movement. A low start is kinda cool, and bumps the grade up to around V9.

Location

To get there, hike south from the building, cross the stream to the east side, and follow the east shoreline right to the boulders.

Per Dan Russell: follow that trail down until it forks. Take the left fork. After a minute or so you cross a bridge and the trail turns back to the right, paralleling the stream. When it turns back left/uphill/away from the stream, plunge straight ahead across the field. Following the streambed you'll quickly come to many boulders in the streambed itself.
Ok... after some beta revelations, I guess V8 is more appropriate for the low start.

Also, a taller climber used a two finger pocket to do the crux move to the lip on the original start and it seemed to make the problem substantially easier than folks who need to use the sloping crimp with their right hand.... that may bring the V6 comment into perspective.

Finally, I still haven't found out if the short problem under the roof right of Gerbils has a name. I heard it was V7 and in warmer temps, this seemed appropriate... maybe V6 if it's cold. Anyway, I linked that problem into Punani's low start this past Sunday. Though not a good problems (detracts from punani low), it was certainly a struggle for me and would be a good work out line if you've already done Punani low but find yourself at the block again. Called it "dry spell" and I'll post it here soon. Jan 11, 2010
For what it's worth, my understanding of the original "sit" start: start matched on a low shelf at the lip of the low roof. Do some crazy bunchy moves to join Punani. V9 for sure. One can probably start beneath this lip, but every time I have tried to pull on, I have broken chunks off. In any event, I am of the understanding that matched on the mini-shelf is the original.

Betterton and others have also started down in the cave, using left hand sidepull holds/underclings, as someone mentioned above, for about the same grade. Totally different moves, but still a good add. Less bunchy, more dabby.

So, it's a choose-your-own-adventure sds. Feb 24, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V7
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V7
There is a large undercling underneath the problem for a sit start, but the initial move feels harder than V9, so I was starting the sit from a small scoop down left between the two boulders and right hand on the bigger foothold used to start Punani.... Starting from here felt closer to V9, some long moves and interesting heel hooks to get into the start of Punani.... Jan 12, 2009
Ok.

So you all think this goes at V7+? No way that is no more then V6!!! I can't wait to hear what you all have to say, this is so beta forward. Some good BETA, don't put a pad on the huge rock. Use a pad or two, plus a spotter is safer! Oct 28, 2008
cstorms
North Bend, OR
  V7
cstorms   North Bend, OR
  V7
Does anyone have anymore info on the sit start? Like where it begins exactly or anything else. Mar 14, 2008
Andrew Iltis
Denver, CO
  V7-8
Andrew Iltis   Denver, CO
  V7-8
I was able to pull the right problem way before surmounting Punani. I would suggest that it is in the V5 range because the top moves are pretty straightforward, it's just a pain gaining the stance in the dihedral. Jun 12, 2007
What does anyone think the grade is for the mini-dihedral to the right of Punani (Gerbils)?
It is a very old problem and I've always had a hard time putting a grade on it. Apr 5, 2007
Follow that trail down until it forks. Take the left fork. After a minute or so you cross a bridge and the trail turns back to the right, paralleling the stream. When it turns back left/uphill/away from the stream, plunge straight ahead across the field. Following the streambed you'll quickly come to many boulders in the streambed itself. Punani is among them. Sorry, but directions to this are hard to be specific with. Post again if you still have trouble and I'll draw a map to email to you. It's worth it - Punani is a beautiful problem with pure, dynamic movement. Aug 5, 2004
I was at Castlewood the other day looking for this problem. I bushwhacked for a while to no avail. Does anyone have better directions that would help me find it? Aug 2, 2004
I think "Punani" is the arete on the left while "Gerbil in a Chute" is the dihedral stemmy thing to the right, isn't it? I might be wrong. Here's a link to a photo of that problem:

worldzone.net/sports/waygoo… Feb 14, 2003