Type: Boulder
FA: Tom Hanson, mid '80s
Page Views: 2,180 total · 17/month
Shared By: cstorms on Mar 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the dihedral...fun technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. It is aptly named.

Location

This is on the Punani Boulder (see directions) and directly to the right of Punani.

Protection

Perfect landing, a pad and a spotter for the topout is nice.

Photos

half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Does anyone know anything about the problem directly right of this one with a huge move from the large hueco to a pocket up left and a crimp next to it, then to the lip??? Jan 12, 2009
Right hand variant to Gerbils?
I do recall a hideous top out mantle. Jan 13, 2009
Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....

Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The Mangler".

Aside from the dyno, the span on the first move, as described, is prohibitive for the short. I suspect that it can be done by letting go of the starting hold and somehow catching your swing with some clever dynamic foot dancing.... In any event, I suspect that shorties with dyno skills will prefer to start as for Gerbil in a chute and just cut right at the arete pocket to skip the lurch move and keep the cool power huck of doom.

I posted a couple photos of Celo's heartbreaking robbery last spring.... Feb 24, 2009
Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block. May 21, 2009
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  V5
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  V5
I imagine before the 2013 flood when the ground was higher the start wasn't too bad. Right now this rig feels like a V5. Pulling off the ground at the start is hard, more so if you are shorter. The finish is no gimme, and the taller you are, the harder it will feel as the feet are very high. Once you gain the lip, the top out moves left into Punani. Nov 23, 2018