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Routes in Punani Boulder

Craterface V6 7A
Dry Spell V9-10 7C+
Gerbil in a Chute V3-4 6A+
Mole Monkey Work V6- 7A
Pleasure By Ambush V6 7A
Punani V7 7A+
Troll V6 7A
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Type: Boulder
FA: Tom Hanson, mid '80s
Page Views: 2,128 total · 17/month
Shared By: cstorms on Mar 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. It is aptly named.


This is on the Punani Boulder (see directions) and directly to the right of Punani.


Perfect landing, a pad and a spotter for the topout is nice.


half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Does anyone know anything about the problem directly right of this one with a huge move from the large hueco to a pocket up left and a crimp next to it, then to the lip??? Jan 12, 2009
Right hand variant to Gerbils?
I do recall a hideous top out mantle. Jan 13, 2009
Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....

Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The Mangler".

Aside from the dyno, the span on the first move, as described, is prohibitive for the short. I suspect that it can be done by letting go of the starting hold and somehow catching your swing with some clever dynamic foot dancing.... In any event, I suspect that shorties with dyno skills will prefer to start as for Gerbil in a chute and just cut right at the arete pocket to skip the lurch move and keep the cool power huck of doom.

I posted a couple photos of Celo's heartbreaking robbery last spring.... Feb 24, 2009
Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block. May 21, 2009

More About Gerbil in a Chute