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Areas in Bouldering problems

Berthoud/Buddha area 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Buoux Block area 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Central City area 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Corridor area 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Creekside Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Falls Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Five and Dime Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Fountainbleau area 0 / 0 / 1 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Inner Canyon area 0 / 0 / 1 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Mama Jama Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Miscellaneous Castlewood Boulder problems 0 / 0 / 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Punani Area/North Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Elevation: 5,400 ft
GPS: 39.317, -104.739 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 68,857 total, 334/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Bouldering at the Wood is great. There are TONS of possibilities, and it is a year-round area. In the summer, shady places like the Fountainebleau Boulder let you hit the slopers, while in the winter, great rocks such as the Phallic Boulder are creek-side and south-facing. There is quite a collection just West of the ranger station at the North park entrance. Wintertime bouldering can be found near areas such as the Playground, Falls Wall, or any South-facing areas (which are numerous).

Castlewood is a capital L-shaped canyon. Punani is up at the top of the L at the North part, down by the creek. The Berthoud Cave is up in the Inner Canyon, which is the horizontal part of the L and way South. To find Punani and this problem, you have to enter the North Entrance to the park, and park at the Lucas Homestead lot/trail and then follow that trail down to the bridge, and then follow the directions listed here.

Eds. this area has undergone a recent reorganization to make it more user friendly. A good starting point is the area map provided by Andy Librande.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Just explore the park. Also see the new book "Colorado Bouldering" by Phillip Benningfield. It lists good beta for some of the rocks here. Also Hanson's guidebook lists some good bouldering spots but no specific problem info.

Map of some of the boulders

Here is a map to some of the boulders, courtesy of Andy Librande.

104 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bouldering problems

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1+ 5
Rocket Ship
Boulder
V2 5+
Up Staged
Boulder
V2 5+
Sangre De Los Manos
Boulder
V3 6A
Butt Crystal
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
Fountain Lip Traverse
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
Gerbil in a Chute
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
No Approach Boulder Problem
Boulder
V4 6B
Nine Lives Arete
Boulder
V5 6C
Phillip's Problem
Boulder
V5 6C
Super Mario
Boulder
V6 7A
Cave Direct
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
Distance Overhang Sit Start
Boulder
V7 7A+
Punani
Boulder
V7 7A+
Tiger Woods
Boulder
V12+ 8A+ X
Little Devil
TR, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocket Ship Fountainbleau area > Fountain Lip Boulder V1+ 5 Boulder
Up Staged Fountainbleau area > Fountainebleau Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Sangre De Los Manos Fountainbleau area > Standalone Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Butt Crystal Berthoud/Buddha area > Buddha Cave area V3 6A Boulder
Fountain Lip Traverse Fountainbleau area > Fountain Lip Boulder V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Gerbil in a Chute Punani Area/N Canyon > Punani Boulder V3-4 6A+ Boulder
No Approach Boulder Problem Falls Area > No Approach Boulder V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Nine Lives Arete Central City area > Nine Lives Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Phillip's Problem Berthoud/Buddha area > Buddha Cave area V5 6C Boulder
Super Mario Fountainbleau area > Super Mario Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Cave Direct Fountainbleau area > Fountain Lip Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Distance Overhang Sit Start Fountainbleau area > Distance Boulder V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Punani Punani Area/N Canyon > Punani Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
Tiger Woods Inner Canyon area > Tim's Boulder aka Powerline Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
Little Devil Miscellaneous Castlewood Boulder… V12+ 8A+ X TR, Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Bouldering problems »

Weather Averages

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evan h
Denver, CO
evan h   Denver, CO
Andy, that looks reasonable to me, especially given the two entrance scenario. Again, I'm not at all familiar with the park, but any scheme that directs a new visitor from large scale sectors down to a smaller selection of boulders, down to individual problems is a good one. Dec 18, 2013
Andy Librande
Denver, CO
Andy Librande   Denver, CO
Suggestion for organization:

Top level:

West Entrance (Back Entrance)
East Entrance (Visitor Center Entrance)

West Entrance would be organized something like this:
- Five and Dime Boulders
- FountaineBleau Area
- Punani Area (better name?)
- Central City
- Buoux Block Area

East Entrance would be organized something like this:
- Inner-Canyon
- Corridor Area
- Berthoud/Buddha Area
- Creekside Area

Or not have East/West Entrances and have all of the same areas as listed above (plus others as needed).

Thoughts!?! Dec 16, 2013
evan h
Denver, CO
evan h   Denver, CO
Maybe this has been addressed elsewhere, but I think it would be a great service to the community if one of the locals here would do some organizing to the bouldering database. To someone who has never visited (me two days ago) trying to find a place to set up camp (and know what you're climbing) was rather difficult using Mountain Project alone. For instance, even the Font Boulders could use a few subdivisions. Just a thought. Dec 15, 2013
Has anyone been up to Tiger Woods recently, where are you supposed to start, has the start broken?

I'm looking at this picture of Austin Geiman's:

8a.nu/gallery/Main.aspx?Use…

and he obviously started on some hold on the right side. On 8a, someone commented that the start hold broke on 2005-02-20.

I sent a line that started matched on the low hueco (near Austin's left knee) and threw right hand to the sloper. Toe hook/bicycle the starting hueco and hit a left hand crimp just above the sloper and the huck for the jug. Felt approx. V8-9 to me, but I'm starting to think this is not the intended start for Tiger Woods.

Thanks in advance,

Austin Jan 30, 2012
Tiger Woods and Shred of Dignity are two separate problems.
Tiger resides on the south side of the block below the power line, while Shred is a bit east, nearer and below The Playground. Mar 15, 2010
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Tiger Woods sure sounds a lot like the Shred of Dignity. But that's the thing about little-used boulder problems, they can be re-discovered and re-named every 10 years or so. Mar 14, 2010
Andy, you rock! I've never climbed from the east entrance, so I'll check it out first chance I get. Thanks. Mar 13, 2010
Andy Librande
Denver, CO
Andy Librande   Denver, CO
Tiger Woods is in the East entrance in the inner canyon. Take the trail into the canyon until you see the powerlines going over the trail. Head to your right up the hill around there (should have a faint trail). Just below the cliff line. Line is the left one heading out of the cave. Details in Colorado Bouldering 2. Dec 28, 2009
Can someone please tell me where the Tiger Woods problem is? Or maybe submit an entry on MP? Dec 19, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Hey, my friend dropped my chalk bucket while bush-whacking up near the Buddha Cave-Titanic Block area. If you find it, there's a reward in there somewhere for you.... Aug 4, 2009
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
Does anyone know what the traverse is called over by Gorilla's Milk on the Grocery Store Wall? It's actually a really fun traverse with some great heel hooks. I think it goes at V1. Apr 11, 2007
Joe
Joe  
Once you walk up near the grocery store wall, head right. You should come across a good set of problems for anywhere from beginner to moderate to semi advanced. It's the most fun in the canyon I have found so far, better for summer or warmer weather, because it's in the shade. Feb 8, 2005

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