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Routes in The Hangdog Cafe

Blood Monkey S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Camping with Cows T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crank Du Jour S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crimp Scampi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dyne and Dash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oldtimey Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wobbler Pudding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: head crew, 2001
Page Views: 104 total, 1/month
Shared By: richard magill on Jul 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Try the Crimp Scampi - a nice appetizer at the Cafe.

This is a very nice line with interesting moves. It is the only thing that feels like a warmup at this crag, with only a single 11a move on the line. However, this route has nice continuity and plenty of 5.10 maneuvering before and after the crux.

I usually avoid giving much beta, but I will make an exception here - when the going gets tough, think right hand layaway and get your feet high. Then start a long reach to a blind hold - when you think you can't go any higher, go a little further. The left hand hold is good, and the insecure movement out of this position will get your blood pumping.

If you are still hungry for more, you can try a big plate of Blood Monkey next.

Crimp Scampi is the 2nd from the rightmost route on the Hangdog Cafe.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

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The hangers were upgraded this weekend courtesy of the Rampart Range Rocks crew. King Hangdog was upgraded too. Jul 14, 2014
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
This is fun route that provides a nice warmup. Along with the 10a to the right (Chossburger), Crimp Scampi provides a nice, logical warmup progression for the crag. Also, it is handy for working on the 12c to the left (Dyne and Dash). Aug 7, 2012
Brian Simonds
Golden, CO
Brian Simonds   Golden, CO
This is no longer the rightmost climb on Hangdog Cafe. There is another climb to the right of Crimp Scampi and is distinguished since it is the only one with stainless hangers. From the ground, it appears much easier than the other routes on the wall.

BTW- CS is great fun. Bon appetit! Aug 4, 2008