Avg: 2.5 from 13 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||head crew, 2001|
|Page Views:||236 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||richard magill on Jul 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This is a very nice line with interesting moves. It is the only thing that feels like a warmup at this crag, with only a single 11a move on the line. However, this route has nice continuity and plenty of 5.10 maneuvering before and after the crux.
I usually avoid giving much beta, but I will make an exception here - when the going gets tough, think right hand layaway and get your feet high. Then start a long reach to a blind hold - when you think you can't go any higher, go a little further. The left hand hold is good, and the insecure movement out of this position will get your blood pumping.
If you are still hungry for more, you can try a big plate of Blood Monkey next.
Crimp Scampi is the 2nd from the rightmost route on the Hangdog Cafe.