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Routes in The Hangdog Cafe

Blood Monkey S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Camping with Cows T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crank Du Jour S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crimp Scampi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dyne and Dash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oldtimey Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wobbler Pudding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Anderson and Moscowicz
Page Views: 360 total, 2/month
Shared By: richard magill on Aug 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

The name comes from the myriad complaints about the rating from some of the crew, which were met only with the comment, "it's an old timey eleven".

So you might find this a bit of a sandbag, but we are pretty sure there is no move harder than 11c on the line. Just be ready for plenty of difficult climbing and continuity.

This route ascends the overhanging dihedral that separates the left vertical panel from the giant roof. It is just right of Crank Du Jour. This is the longest route at the crag and although it isn't the most difficult, it may be the best.

Protection

13-14 bolts, stick clip is nice for the first bolt.

Photos

Furthermore  
 
Without a stick clip, the lower section before the first bolt can be protected with a bomber BD C4 #0.75. It would be a pretty tough and scary first bolt without the 0.75 or stick clip. Jul 18, 2016
Hangers upgraded on 10/6/14 courtesy of the Head Crew. Oct 7, 2014
Anchor upgraded with stainless Sept. 2010. Extraneous quick links left on the cold shuts will be redeployed elsewhere. BTW, single quick links on cold shuts will snarl a rope big time. Sep 15, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
It's been a couple of years, but I remember this route being really stiff for 5.11, but also really excellent. May 29, 2010