The Oldtimey Eleven
Avg: 3.4 from 10 votes
Routes in The Hangdog Cafe
|Blood Monkey S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Camping with Cows T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Crank Du Jour S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Crimp Scampi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Dyne and Dash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Oldtimey Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Wobbler Pudding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||Anderson and Moscowicz|
|Page Views:||360 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||richard magill on Aug 7, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe name comes from the myriad complaints about the rating from some of the crew, which were met only with the comment, "it's an old timey eleven".
So you might find this a bit of a sandbag, but we are pretty sure there is no move harder than 11c on the line. Just be ready for plenty of difficult climbing and continuity.
This route ascends the overhanging dihedral that separates the left vertical panel from the giant roof. It is just right of Crank Du Jour. This is the longest route at the crag and although it isn't the most difficult, it may be the best.