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Routes in The Hangdog Cafe

Blood Monkey S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Camping with Cows T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crank Du Jour S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crimp Scampi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dyne and Dash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oldtimey Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wobbler Pudding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Magill, Anderson, Burwick
Page Views: 478 total · 2/month
Shared By: richard magill on Jul 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Hangdog Cafe really splits into three main features as you look at it. There is a massive roof in the middle, with mostly vertical walls on either side. Crank Du Jour is on the right side of the vertical wall to the left of the massive roof. From left to right, it is the second route on the crag.

This route is really all about a burly boulder problem between the first and second bolts. Puzzle it out and the route is yours - after the steep crux, the route turns to pleasant 5.11 vertical climbing.

Protection

7 bolts -bring a stick clip for the first bolt.

Photos

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slim

  5.12b
slim    
  5.12b
My initial impression of this route is pretty similar to Jack Sparrow's. The crux isn't very fun. Way scrunchy, way awkward, and fairly painful. The block under the anchor is pretty scary. It would probably kill you and your belayer if it came off. Climb to the left of it, and don't use it for your hands (which would be hard to do without pulling out on it). From below, you can't see the left line of holds very well, and it is tempting to get in the wrong position for the block. crux will be way easier if you are short. Sep 21, 2015
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12
This is an anti-classic, sketchy first clip; really bad rock; scrunched, painful, awkward crux; and a huge loose block you have to stand on to clip anchors. I'd give it negative stars if I could. Blood Monkey is significantly better. May 15, 2013