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Routes in The Hangdog Cafe

Blood Monkey S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Camping with Cows T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crank Du Jour S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crimp Scampi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dyne and Dash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oldtimey Eleven, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wobbler Pudding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 87 total, 1/month
Shared By: slim on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Dyne and Dash is a nice little route that makes a good 'quick' project. The route is short and can easily be broken down into a couple boulder problems. The rock is really good, the protection is excellent, and for the short length the variety and quality of the climbing is very good. There are 2 good warmups (10b and 11b) to the right and you can easily hang the draws for this one.

Begin just left of 'Crimp Scampi' near the right side of the wall. Tediously make your way up to the first bolt (stick clipping is a good idea, there is a fragile flake). Set up for the first crux and fight to a good rest. Decipher the upper crux, fighting the urge to step out right to easier climbing.

Both books give Dyne and Dash a single devil/star. I thought it was better - the only knocks on it being the short length and the temptation of moving out to the right onto 'Crimp Scampi' at the upper crux. The topo shows the lower crux as being 11b, which seemed way off. Do not underestimate this part (as I did my first time on the route) - this part actually gave me more trouble than the upper crux. The lower crux will probably punish the short, while the upper crux mangles the tall. It is an equal opportunity sort of route.

Location

This is at the Hangdog Cafe, it is the 3rd route from the furthest right. This route is just right of the obvious, steep arete Blood Monkey.

Protection

5 bolts (IIRC) and anchors.

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