Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft (12 m)|
|Page Views:||366 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Aug 27, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Begin just left of 'Crimp Scampi' near the right side of the wall. Tediously make your way up to the first bolt (stick clipping is a good idea, there is a fragile flake). Set up for the first crux and fight to a good rest. Decipher the upper crux, fighting the urge to step out right to easier climbing.
Both books give Dyne and Dash a single devil/star. I thought it was better - the only knocks on it being the short length and the temptation of moving out to the right onto 'Crimp Scampi' at the upper crux. The topo shows the lower crux as being 11b, which seemed way off. Do not underestimate this part (as I did my first time on the route) - this part actually gave me more trouble than the upper crux. The lower crux will probably punish the short, while the upper crux mangles the tall. It is an equal opportunity sort of route.