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Early Access
Routes in Independence Monument
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Dependence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3- |
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Geezer Highway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Independence Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Otto's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Sundial Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Unknown Handcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.09581, -108.7234 |
| FA: | John Otto, July 4, 1911 |
| Page Views: | 108,587 total · 345/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Peregrine falcon nesting in 2025 - please avoid climbing here currently
Details
The Park is asking and encouraging climbers to choose other routes in the Monument for climbing until we know the outcome of the nest. If anyone has questions, please reach out!
Description
This is a nice climb in four short pitches that finishes with the last exposed and dramatic prow to the summit. It's on the shady side of the monument, so warm days are preferable. The FA, Otto, drilled and chopped many holds in the soft sandstone to aid up this route with pipes in the holes, but now just the holes remain, which gives the route a moderate rating.
P1. (5.5) Start on the NW side near the east end at a right-angling ramp. Follow the angling ramp, climb past a chockstone, and then climb up chopped steps to a large ledge with a crack to protect for a belay.
P2. (5.8) Climb up widening crack through a squeeze/slot. Drilled 1-inch holes from Otto's pipe ladder make the climbing 5.8 rather than 5.10. Continue up through the 3rd class Time Tunnel.
*Note that some parties end their second pitch before the Time Tunnel.
P3. (5.8) Fun pitch. Climb up the face on drilled pockets and chopped steps to Lunch Box Ledge. There are three drilled anchors at the belay.
P4. (5.8+) This is the awesome crux pitch. Take the chopped steps to the right up the easy but runout and exposed prow and finish with a steep headwall below the caprock. There are bolts for protection on the upper headwall section. Belay on a ledge just below the summit.
To descend, make a double rope rap past Lunchbox Ledge to the large shelf with the Time Tunnel. Traverse down the small tunnel to a short rap to a large ledge (at the top of the 2nd pitch). Look for the last double rope rap to the right at the edge of the ledge, which was the top of the first pitch. Per Daniel Heins: a single 70m rope also works for doing these three rappels.
Alternately - per Becca Joy Steinbrecher: from the large shelf, traverse down the small tunnel to the top of pitch 2. Either do a double rope rappel from here to the ground, or rappel to the 1st anchor & one last rappel to the ground.
Protection
A small rack of cams with a 1.5 and 2 tricam, and a #4 Camalot. About 6 draws and several shoulder length slings should do. Bring two ropes (for the rap).
Per Bryce Kerscher: a #5 Camalot is optional.
Per James Turro: for pitch one, you really only need #0.75, #1, and #2 Black Diamond C4s cams.
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