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Routes in Keyboard of the Winds

Cold Blooded Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Forgotten Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glissando Link-up, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Key of Free T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quien Sabe Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southwest Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: J.W. Alexander
Page Views: 2,089 total · 11/month
Shared By: paco on Aug 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Southwest Ridge of Long's features great rock and amazing views of Glacier Gorge. Yet, due to its shady ways , it can be a bit nippy in the morning.

While I'm not sure I'd hike all the way up there to do this route by itself, it is a good route to link with perhaps the Beaver 5.5 and/or Keyhole Ridge 5.6, etc.

Southwest Ridge is actually the continuation of Keyboard of the Winds to the summit of Longs. Choose your approach and shoe-up at the end(top) of Keyboard of the Winds. There are a few variations at the start but once 100 or 200ft up climb flakes and cracks straight up the prow. four pitches??

The Gillett High Peaks guide has good photos of how to approach this route.

Protection

Bring a lite rack. Maybe a set of cams and a few nuts.

Photos

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