Type: Trad, Alpine, 120 ft (36 m), Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 313 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Aug 20, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is among the easier decent routes to Mrs. Stubbs's summit (aka true mapped summit of Keyboard of the Winds). There might be something easier and junkier on the east side.

Note several cracks and dihedrals on the south face. Most of these look fairly moderate. This is the cleanest line immediately below the summit: a right-facing dihedral with a crack.

Follow blockier corner terrain for first half until reaching a hand/fist crack. Stem and jam the corner crack. Belay off summit boulders. There is some webbing up there, but you might need to supplement it.

We rappelled south, angling slightly east so a single 60m would work. We used a single 60m twin and halved it for the lead, requiring the second to simul/ascend 15 feet of 4th/low 5th before the leader could anchor.


Access (~2-3 hrs for average speed via any route):

-from the Keyhole route by traversing beneath Keyboard of the Winds on the west side from the Trough (scree, scramble).
-from the Keyhole route by descending from near the Homestretch and finding the gully east of the ridge (3rd Class) to descend through a cliffband.
-hiking to Black Lake, up beneath the Spearhead, and following the Pagoda Couloir to the Pagoda/Keyboard saddle. Hook left/north, and pass two mini-points to the base of the route (easiest method, Class 2 with social trail).
-from any route accessing Pagoda/Long's link-ups.


A single rack to BD #3 is fine, but a #4 would protect the crux well if the grade is in doubt.