Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 120 ft, Grade II|
|Page Views:||136 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Marsters on Aug 20, 2019|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
Note several cracks and dihedrals on the south face. Most of these look fairly moderate. This is the cleanest line immediately below the summit: a right-facing dihedral with a crack.
Follow blockier corner terrain for first half until reaching a hand/fist crack. Stem and jam the corner crack. Belay off summit boulders. There is some webbing up there, but you might need to supplement it.
We rappelled south, angling slightly east so a single 60m would work. We used a single 60m twin and halved it for the lead, requiring the second to simul/ascend 15 feet of 4th/low 5th before the leader could anchor.
-from the Keyhole route by traversing beneath Keyboard of the Winds on the west side from the Trough (scree, scramble).
-from the Keyhole route by descending from near the Homestretch and finding the gully east of the ridge (3rd Class) to descend through a cliffband.
-hiking to Black Lake, up beneath the Spearhead, and following the Pagoda Couloir to the Pagoda/Keyboard saddle. Hook left/north, and pass two mini-points to the base of the route (easiest method, Class 2 with social trail).
-from any route accessing Pagoda/Long's link-ups.