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Routes in Keyboard of the Winds

Cold Blooded Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Forgotten Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Left Prow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glissando Link-up, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Key of Free T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quien Sabe Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southwest Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo, 4 August 2009
Page Views: 1,474 total, 15/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route ascends the NW arete or ridge of the unknown tower between Tower One and The Dark Tower. Approach from Glacier Gorge as for Tower One and break right once even with the base of the buttress. A clean, right-facing dihedral is obvious on the right and is the crux of the route. The climb over-all is reminiscent of the Keyhole Ridge on Long's Peak, though the dihedral is somewhat more difficult. Above the dihedral a short steep pitch leads to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge crest south to the summit. Pretty good outing, but way remote.

The west side of the tower is another story. Two long dihedrals face each other to create a narrow inset that tops out at the crest of the ridge. The left-facing corner on the right of the inset looks to be worth the long approach. Another similar inset splits the face to the right. Recommendation: bring a rope and a partner.

To escape from the summit, ooze down a slot then traverse a narrow ledge southeast to the notch between the summit and two big "rabit ears" spires. Return to Black Lake as for Tower One.

Location

This route ascends very obvious features on Tower Two (or the "Light Tower"), which is the prominent buttress between Tower One and the Dark Tower in the Keyboard of the Winds.

Protection

Bring thin crack gear to 2 inches for the dihedral.

Photos

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