Quien Sabe Arete
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Keyboard of the Winds
|Cold Blooded Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Forgotten Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Forgotten Left Prow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Glissando Link-up, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Key of Free T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Quien Sabe Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Southwest Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter, solo, 4 August 2009|
|Page Views:||1,474 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Rossiter on Aug 5, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route ascends the NW arete or ridge of the unknown tower between Tower One and The Dark Tower. Approach from Glacier Gorge as for Tower One and break right once even with the base of the buttress. A clean, right-facing dihedral is obvious on the right and is the crux of the route. The climb over-all is reminiscent of the Keyhole Ridge on Long's Peak, though the dihedral is somewhat more difficult. Above the dihedral a short steep pitch leads to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge crest south to the summit. Pretty good outing, but way remote.
The west side of the tower is another story. Two long dihedrals face each other to create a narrow inset that tops out at the crest of the ridge. The left-facing corner on the right of the inset looks to be worth the long approach. Another similar inset splits the face to the right. Recommendation: bring a rope and a partner.
To escape from the summit, ooze down a slot then traverse a narrow ledge southeast to the notch between the summit and two big "rabit ears" spires. Return to Black Lake as for Tower One.