Southwest Corner

Find the rock as for the East Face, but move up from Sky Pond toward the Southwest corner of the South Face. The route finishes as for the South Face, so you still get the famous finish, although some of the crowds can be avoided.

P1: (5.4, 200 ft) The standard start. Scramble up to the center of the face on a left-facing system, about 50-60 yards to the left of the South Face route. This will land you on a ledge contiguous with the beginning of the chimney pitch of the South Face.

P2: (5.6) Move a ways to the right and climb an obvious, left-leaning, left-facing corner system and belay on a ledge where the corner goes straight up. This system leans to the left and then back right and can be seen from Sky Pond, although it is less distinct as you move up. 

P3: (5.5) Follow the corner and easier terrain above to the Upper Terrace. Move the belay 50 feet left.

Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined with some simul-climbing.

P4: (5.7) From the ledge at the top of P3, move a little left and climb shallow corners, cracks, and steep slabs up left to a ledge just left of the southwest shoulder of the Petit. There is no definite crux. This will place the next belay on the airy shoulder of the Petit.

P5: (5.8) Ascend corners and cracks on the sharp ridge, which are mostly left-facing, for a long, sustained pitch. This is the line of least resistance up the shoulder of the Petit to the next belay on a ledge on the exposed arete. This is a great pitch for scenery and exposure. There are a few 5.8 cruxes.

P6: (5.9) Climb further up the ridge until you step right into a vertical crack. There are two options here; either is likely the crux of the climb. For the left version (P6a), the crack will pass a 5.9 roof. The moves are difficult with a pack on and are not that well-protected. Put a few pieces in before arriving at the roof for backup. The crux pro was a 3" cam but was some ways below me, as I was carrying a very light rack. I do not recall what other gear could have been placed higher. Climb up this crack through the roof (see the picture of Darrin Livingston approaching the crux) and belay on a ledge.

Variation P6: For the right version (P6b), the crack is protected reasonably (and has 2 fixed wires) and comes up to a small roof with an undercling and finger crack above it. Either way, step left after the roof back to the arete and move up to the next ledge to belay.

P7: (5.7) Continue up the southwest corner through a small bulge and double cracks and then angle right to the obvious notch below the overhanging summit blade. The route merges with the South Face route here. This stance is well above the "Pizza Pan" belay on the South Face route. To summit, follow pitches 8 and 9 of the South Face route.

Variation: P7: move over on said ledge to the Pizza Pan belay of the South Face route, and follow the South Face to the spectacular summit!

Variation: skip the first three pitches by starting on the very southwest corner of the Petit, in the gully, making your way up to and through the big left-facing dihedral (5.10b) for a very long pitch to the ledge at the base of pitch 4.

A standard light alpine rack - nuts & hexes with a few cams. Make sure you take plenty of 2' slings, as the route wanders like any other alpine route.

6 rappels with double ropes on climber's right of South Face. 

Rap 1: 160 ft

Rap 2: 130 ft

Rap 3: 100 ft (+walk left)

Rap 4: 190 ft

Rap 5: 200 ft (this one is hard to spot until you are right upon it)

Rap 6: 200 ft