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Routes in Dinosaur's Foot

Chapped Lip T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chapstick T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Copradelite S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dino Dung T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heel Toe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Index Toe S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Joint Venture S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Toe Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Toe S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pocket Full of Cryptonite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shekina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Strategery S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Rope Wall Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Andy Brown, 1994
Page Views: 3,016 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located just uphill from "Index/Middle/Heel Toe" and is found on a large detached pillar/fin. This is the route directly under the anchor at the top right of the Fin. You will want to stick clip the first bolt, as this is where the business is located. The hard climbing starts from the ground up, grab the large open handed ledge and go up and left to a good crimp, From here paste your feet up and look for a crimp by the bolt, just below. You will also have another crimp just to the right of the bolt. The feet are fairly tricky and the crimps will be a little sharp from here on, climb on small feet and mini crimps to the second bolt, long reach up and left to clip the second bolt, fro mhere head a little right gaining some better holds and onward to the 3rd bolt. Once at the 3rd bolt the climbing eases considerably. A great route, although short, it will definitely make you think and force you to crimp down hard !! Beauty line, too bad so short.

This submission was originally submitted with the same spelling as in the Gillett Estes Valley guidebook.

Protection

3 bolts - 2 bolt anchor (Shared with others on the Dinosaur's Foot). This was originally noted in the Gillett guidebook as having 4 bolts. Now, the first bolt is been removed and a bolt sleeve remains.

Location

This route is located just uphill from ""Index/Middle/Heel Toe" and is found on a large detached pillar/fin.

Photos

This is a really fun route; but it is basically a boulder problem into substantially easier climbing.

This route seems easier than Andrology. There was zero chalk on this past the starting hold, while Andrology is, apparently, TRed to submission by 99% of the folks visiting the crag. So, even though Andrology has the benefit of a "roadmap" of chalk for the onsight, Cryptonite seemed easier overall. Having done both, it seems to me Andrology is a step up. So if Cryptonite is 12a, Andrology is 12b; or, if Andrology is 12a, Cryptonite is 11c/d. Of course, one perspective on the grades doesn't mean a damn thing, and in general I am pretty bad a distinguishing between grades. This is just my two cents for anyone trying to figure out which route to try. Both are really fun and worthwhile, though they are very, very different types of climbs. Jul 26, 2015
This is a fun little climb! Climbs better than it looks...start felt breezy by popping my right hand into the small undercling just off the chunky start hold...just sayin'. Oct 3, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Watch out for the clips on such small holds. They'd be easy enough to blow, though it was amazing how well the feet stick here.
My weakness is thin face, particularly on sloping or slanting holds. Being a lower-evolved creature, resembling in some ways a gorilla, this is not my specialty. Furthermore, 5.12s are usually pretty difficult for me regardless of their nature. Still, I was able to do this route without much issue, and not much more trouble than with the 5.11a to the left, "Little Toe Jam." This leads me to suspect that the grade of this climb may be over-estimated. Or, perhaps I was just having a great day and L.T.J. was under-graded.
Either way, a good climb with fun moves on solid holds... no matter how small or hard to find. Jun 7, 2006

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