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Routes in Dinosaur's Foot

Chapped Lip T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chapstick T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Copradelite S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dino Dung T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heel Toe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Index Toe S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Joint Venture S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Little Toe Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Toe S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pocket Full of Cryptonite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shekina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Strategery S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Rope Wall Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,251 total, 20/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

This is the obvious crack line just uphill from The Joint Venture & Strategery (the most uphill bolted lines as of 7.10.4) on the Dinosaur's Foot. It is probably part of the nebulous Top Rope Wall area. This curving cleft just begs to be climbed to the trad at heart. Can you feel the pull? Are your hands & feet getting sucked toward the crack? This is yet another moderate when the lines are long....

Fire up the fissure with more face climbing & laybacking than jamming. About 30 feet up, you may encounter a crux. Trust your feet and step up. You can venture left to avoid a face climbing crux or go straight up for a bit more difficulty. Find the 3 bolt anchor at the top without rappel rings or links.

You can rappel or walk off down & right along a broad ramp. You can also access this as a TR from this same ramp.

1.12 stars ;)

Protection

Surprisingly, smaller pro to #2 Camalot.

Photos

SammyJ
Colorado springs
 
SammyJ   Colorado springs
 
Spicy, short, little 5.7. Not a hard climb, but movement always feels more committing above tricky gear. As the name suggests, it would make a much better top rope, IMO. Aug 15, 2016
Tim Meehan
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Tim Meehan   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Harder lead than it looks from the ground. Cracks flare and important handholds slope. I found small tricams and small offset nuts important for upper half. Jun 21, 2016
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.7
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.7
Did this on toprope because no bolts and pro looked like it might be tricky at top.
Surprisingly fun face climbing on the upper part. Really had fun but used crack for laybacking and avoided jamming the OW crack too much.
Lots of fun face moves but nothing difficult. Oct 19, 2014
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
Hopped on this route real quick one evening because I felt the pull of plugging gear on it as the description says. Not really that bad of a route, a fun undercling move and some nice laybacks give a nice change up to the other routes at Jurassic. I agree with others though on the gear beta. Once underneath the large flake pro just gets real in-obvious. Carrying no RPs or TCUs and missing what my partner pointed out as a decent #2 placement in the horizontal below the flake I had ran it out to groundfall territory before popping in a solid 0.5 Camalot in a horizontal high above the flake just before the easier finish. The climbing isn't that hard, and the cruxes are short, just make sure you've got your lead head on before cruising up it. Aug 15, 2014
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
The top of this route - past the crux is very difficult to protect. The climbing felt like 5.7, but placing gear here would be very difficult. Jul 5, 2013
J C Wilks
Loveland, CO
J C Wilks   Loveland, CO
Using the anchors of Top Rope Wall Crack, starting right of the first bolt of Strategery and staying 3-10 feet left of TRWC is a fun 5.10 face on good edges and smears. Jun 12, 2013
Tits McGee
Boulder, CO
 
Tits McGee   Boulder, CO
 
Decent climb, but the protection is not obvious and the crux moves were tricky to protect. Novice leaders at the grade should think about TRing before placing pro on lead. Jun 15, 2009