Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Bernard Gillett, Doug Snively, 1996
Page Views: 2,999 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

25 Opinions

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This route is located directly uphill and right from the obvious flared chimney "Heel Toe". As the name suggests, this route is a piece of dung/shit. The climbing is very stupid, especially since when you cross the gap to get onto the face the holds are fairly dirty, and the climbing is JUST NOT FUN! Ouch! The rating stays true if you do not stem off the chimney once you cross out onto the face, although this may seem more difficult than it looks, funky footwork. It would have been a much better line if the black streak straight up from the first bolt was bolted, this can be top roped and goes at mid-11, much more enjoyable than the route being described. If you go to Jurassic Park and want to end your day, or being your day on a bad note climb this route and see just how bad it is, believe me, IT'S BAD! This defines the "Bomb" for me on this website.


You can get optional gear (1-2") before the first bolt on very easy ground (5.5), then you get 7 bolts to the anchors. Beware as the anchors have no quicklinks or rap rings to descend from, watch your rope! It is not suggested to [rappel] from this anchor, continue on to the anchor just left of here to descend (60 m rope).


This route is located directly uphill and right from the obvious flared chimney "Heel Toe".


Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I guess I did not find it so bad. Maybe it had just cleaned up a little with traffic? Nothing to repeat, let alone write home about, but not worth bombing. I've done plenty of routes that are worse.
Maybe a little hard for 5.10a unless you stem out left at the crux to the other wall. Jun 7, 2006
Dan Stackhouse
Lakewood, CO
Dan Stackhouse   Lakewood, CO
It has chains on it as of today. Sep 20, 2009
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
Jonathan Reeves   Golden, Colorado
Has chains at the top and is a really fun route. Don't let the description scare you away from it. Must have been dirty in its past, but traffic has cleaned it up well. Sep 20, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
I climbed the 5.11 variation (as shown in the picture with the yellow markings) and found it enjoyable. Jun 4, 2012
Too dirty and wet! Almost every hold to half part of the route, maybe it takes a couple of climbs wind and sun to dry it and clean it. The moves were nice, but I guess I'll have to go back after a couple of sunny days. Jun 8, 2016
My friend said "those guys couldn't make it to the second bolt, and they climb 5.11s". I decided to give it a go and and 50 feet up ended up dropping head first for about twenty feet. Everyone at the base said it was the scariest fall they'd ever witnessed.

I believe I was about 6 feet above the 4th or 5th bolt working my way over a small crux with both hands gripping small crimps that were sharp and uncomfortable. Left foot smearing and picking my right foot up to waist height to a nice nub foot hold. As soon as the right foot got on the hold, the dirty wall my left foot was on broke loose. This led to me falling back and head over six foot to the last draw and another 14 ft past it head first. The rock was dirty, and I truly didn't enjoy the route. Glad to walk away with only minor injuries. It was a little damp with min. sprinkles recently. Aug 9, 2016
Dirtbag Dre  
I was hiking down for the day, passed this, and saw a leaver biner that I knew I could retrieve. Only gave this one star because I got a free biner out of it.... Aug 30, 2016